Baruntse Expedition - Nepal Overview
At 7,129 metres (23,390 feet), Baruntse lies in the heart of the Himalayan giants of Nepal and has a higher summit success rate than comparable peaks. Our expedition offers an opportunity to climb this classic 7,000 metre peak, located in a more remote area of the Khumbu region in Nepal in a relatively short amount of time. The summit affords some of the best views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu that can be seen anywhere in the Himalaya.
Our Baruntse & Mera trip gives members the opportunity to warm up on Mera Peak, 6,476 metres (21,247 feet). Mera Peak is a classic, easier, Nepali peak. It is an excellent training ground for the more challenging Baruntse. During the expedition you will cross the incredibly beautiful Amphu Labtsa Pass, 5,845 metres (19,177 feet). This stunning pass is one of the most impressive passes in the Himalayas and is one of the highlights of the expedition.
Mera Peak and Mount Baruntse www.BaruntseClimb.com Video by Nick H
Baruntse Climbing Expedition Cost
Our full-service expedition includes:
- British, European, or American leader or Expert Sherpa
- Expert climbing Sherpa
- Transport to base camp to/from Kathmandu, including accommodation
- Yak transport of all equipment to and from basecamp
- Warm up climb on Mera Peak (not included on Baruntse only climb)
- Skillful base camp cooks
- Three meals each day
- Group emergency equipment and satellite phone
- Private tents in basecamp (no sharing)
- Full base camp with dinning tent, showers, bathroom, and solar charger
- Double occupancy tents above base camp
- All permit fees and liaison officers
- Use of group gear and supplies
- Two nights stay in a clean comfortable conveniently located Kathmandu hotel on arrival and two nights prior to departure in a double room. Private rooms are available for a small additional fee.
- Airport transfer
What is not included?
- International flights to/from Kathmandu
- Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
- Personal climbing equipment and clothing
- Gratuities for staff
- Nepalese visa
Baruntse Climbing Expedition Detailed Itinerary and Schedule
Baruntse/Mera Peak climb – the Grand Circle Himalayan Traverse
- 1) Arrive Kathmandu 1,300 metres (4,265 feet). Stay at hotel.
- 2) Orientation day, equipment checking, gear shopping and sightseeing in Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
- 3) Drive to Salleri town, 2,360 metres (7,740 feet). Large village in the foothills of Everest. Stay at hotel.
- 4) Drive to Bung village, 1,800 metres (5,904 feet). Entry to Makalu Barun National Park Headquarters. Stay at hotel.
- 5) Walk to Khiraule, 2,460 metres (8,069 feet). Visit Chambaling Monastery. Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
- 6) Walk to Cholemkharka, 3,580 metres (11,742 feet). Beautiful hill farming and yak pastures. Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
- 7) Rest day in Cholemkharka, acclimatization hike nearly to 4,000 metres (13,120 feet). Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
- 8) Walk to Khola Kharka, 4250 metres (14,000 feet), passing through famous Panch Pokhari (5 Lakes) mountain range. Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
- 9) Walk to Kothey, 3,500 metres (11,483 feet), beautiful mountain village surrounded by forest. Sleep in Teahouse.
- 10) Walk to Tagnag, 4,300 metres (14,108 feet), stunning scenery on the east side of Mera Peak. Sleep in Teahouse.
- 11) Walk to Khare at 5,000 metres (16,404 feet). High Alpine Village at the starting point for Mera La crossing. Sleep in Teahouse.
- 12) Rest day at Khare, check equipment, fixed rope training, acclimatization, explore the surrounding area. Sleep in Teahouse.
- 13) Climb to Mera Peak High Camp, 5,768 metres (18,924 feet). amazing views of Everest and all Himalaya. Camp.
- 14) Summit Mera Peak, 6,476 metres (21,246 feet), descend to Kongma Dingma in the beautiful remote Hongu Valley, 4,850 metres (15,908 feet). Camp.
- 15) Very Short Trek to Setho Pokhari, 5,003 metres (16,414 feet). The beautiful Hongu Valley Trek passes massive peaks such as mighty Mt. Chamlang. Camp.
- 16) Walk to Baruntse basecamp, 5,380 metres (17,646 feet). Basecamp is in a large bowl at the base of the mountain itself.
- 17) Rest & Acclimatization, Sherpa prayer ceremony (puja).
- 18) Glacier and fixed rope training on small ice walls near basecamp.
- 19) Climb to camp 1 on the West Col, 6,126 metres (20,100 feet) using fixed ropes. Stunning views of Baruntse climbing route and massive Mt. Makalu.
- 20) Very short climb to camp 2 at 6,350 metres (20,828 feet). Camp 2 lies at the base of the Baruntse Ridge.
- 21) Summit attempt using fixed ropes, 7,129 metres (23,390 feet).
- 22) Extra day for summit attempt, return to basecamp.
- 23) Return to basecamp, rest, pack up.
- 24) Hike through the scenic Panch Pokhari (5 Lakes) valley to base of Amphu Labtsa pass, 5450 metres (17,876 feet). Camp.
- 25) Cross Amphu Labtsa pass, 5,845 metres (19,177 feet) to Chukkung village, 4,750 metres (15,584 feet). A very beautiful day of climbing and trekking to Khumbu/Everest valley, passing Island Peak. Sleep in teahouse.
- 26) Walk to Pangboche village 3,985 metres (13,070 feet). Famous Everest base camp trekking route with many lodges and restaurants and beautiful scenery of Mt. Ama Dablam. Sleep in teahouse.
- 27) Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3,450 metres (11,319 feet). This big village is the capital of the Sherpa people. Teahouse.
- 28) Walk to Lukla, 2,860 metres (9,383 feet). Village containing the famous airport used for flights between Everest region and Kathmandu. Sleep in teahouse.
- 29) Flight to Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
- 30) Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends. Stay at hotel.
- 31) Fly home.
Baruntse Climbing Expedition Leadership, Sherpas and Staff
Leadership: Dan Mazur is a relaxed, friendly, well organized, and highly skilled professional with over 20 years of experience leading people to the summits of Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Manaslu, Shishapangma and Baruntse.
Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.
Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.
Baruntse Climbing Expedition Personal & Team Mountain Equipment
Climbing:
- Climbing harness
- 5 meters (16 ft.) of 6mm accessory cord
- Figure 8 abseil/belay device (tube style devices, i.e. ATC will not work on fixed lines)
- Full size ascender (i.e. PetzlAscention)
- 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small
- 4 non-locking carabiners
- Ice axe with leash
- Steel crampons with anti-balling plates
- Trekking poles
- Abseiling/Rappelling Gloves
Upper Body:
- 2 cotton t-shirts
- 2 synthetic t-shirts
- 2 long sleeve synthetic shirts
- Light-weight soft shell jacket
- Medium weight insulatingjacket (fleece, down, or synthetic)
- Hard shell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Gore-Tex or similar)
- Heavy down coat
- For 6,000m peaks a very warm down coat with hood or an 8,000m coat with hood
- For 7,000m peaks an 8,000m coat with hood
- For 8,000m peaks an 8,000m down coat with hood or an 8,000m suit can be used instead
Hands:
- Lightweight poly-liner gloves
- Mid-weight soft shell gloves – water/wind resistant
- Heavy- weight waterproof gloves – Gore-tex shell with removable liner
- Expedition weight mittens -Gore-tex over mitt matched polar fleece mitt liner
Head:
- Helmet
- Warm hat that covers your ears
- Balaclava
- Face mask
- Baseball hat or brimmed sun hat
- Glacier sunglasses with side shields
- Ski goggles with light and dark lenses
- Glasses with clear lenses to protect your eyes while climbing to the summit on windy nights. (cost less than 10 dollars in Kathmandu)
- Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
- Buff/neck gaiter
- Bandana or head scarf (optional)
Lower Body:
- Synthetic underwear
- Hiking shorts
- Hiking pants
- 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
- Medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms
- Polar fleece or soft shell pants
- Waterproof/breathable pants with full side zips (Gore-Tex or similar)
- Heavy insulating pants
- For 6,000m peaks: Down or synthetic pants will full zips
- For 7,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants
- For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants or a 8,000m suit can be used instead
Feet:
- Boots
- For 6,000m peaks: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc) Modern waterproof, single boots designed for 4-5,000m peaks may be suitable if they can be worn with 2 pairs of socks and vapor barrier lines and/or they are equipped with overboots
- For 7,000m: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc)
- For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m boots - One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent
- Sturdy leather walking boots
- Trainers, running shoes and/or sandals
- Down booties (optional)
- 3 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
- 2 pair poly or wool liner socks (optional)
- Vapor barrier liner socks (optional)
- 2 pair lightweight trekking socks
- Cotton socks for in town
Sleeping:
- Down sleeping bag
- For 6,000m peaks: -18C or 0F
- For 7,000m peaks:-23C or -10F (If you sleep cold consider -29C or -20F)
- For 8,000m peaks: -29C or -20F (If you sleep cold consider -40C or -40F)
- An additional down sleeping bag for basecamp for the following climbs: Everest, Lhotse, AmaDablam, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I and II, Spantik, K2/Broad Peak Everest training climb. For Mastagata a second sleeping bag is optional, but highly recommended.
- Down base camp sleeping bag should be rated to -10C or 15F (If you sleep cold consider -18C or 0F)
- Down base camp sleeping bag should be rated to -10C or 15F (If you sleep cold consider -18C or 0F)
- 2 closed cell foam kari-mats (sleeping pads) for use in basecamp and high altitude (these can be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu)
- High quality inflatable sleeping pad designed for cold weather (Thermarest)
- Patch kit for inflatable pad
Rucksack and Travel Bags:
- Medium rucksack/backpack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used as carry-on bag)
- Waterproof rucksack cover (optional)
- 2 large (120+ L / 7500+ cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment
- Small luggage locks for duffel kit bags
Personal Hygiene:
- Female or male hygiene supplies
- 2 tubes lip sun cream
- Large tube skin sun cream (min factor 30)
- Anti-mosquito cream
- Toothpaste/brush
- Hand sanitizer gel (small-medium bottle)
- Bar of soap small towel
- Hand wipes
- Face Mask
- Hand sanitiser
- Disposable gloves
- Disinfectant wipes
Medical:
- Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc.
- Blister repair kit
- 10 anti-diarrhea pills
- 20 anti-headache pills
- 10 cough and/or cold medicine
- Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide
- 10 Stomach antibiotics: Ciprofloxacin, etc.
- 5 Azithromycin tables
- Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
- Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
- Earplugs
- Extra prescription glasses/contact lenses and supplies
Personal Food:
- Snack food/daily energy food
- Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam, Baruntse: 2-4kg (4.5-9lbs)
- Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu: 2-5kg (4.5-11lbs)
- Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 3-6kg (6.5-13lbs)
- Dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for summit attempt
- Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam: 2 meals
- Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu, Baruntse: 3 meals
- Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 5 meals
- Small roll of repair tape
- Sewing repair kit
- Cigarette lighter
- Small box matches
- Compass or GPS
- Battery powered alarm clock/watch
- Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
- Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage
- 2 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene
- Pee bottle (1litre or larger)
- Plastic cup and spoon
- Small folding knife
- Binoculars (optional)
- 4 very large, waterproof, heavy duty disposable rubbish sacks size 150-200 litre = 40-50 gallon. These are necessary for packing. thanks
- Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary
- Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance
- Dollars, pounds, or euros cash
- Bank/ATM/Cash and credit cards
- Bathing suit/swim suit (you never know)
- Paperback books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, musical instruments, extra batteries, etc.
- Travel clothes for basecamp and in town
- Umbrella (optional)
- Small solar panels for personal electronics (optional)
Group Equipment:
We provide group gear, equipment, and supplies including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection, tents; stoves, fuel, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. A personal tent will be provided for each member at base camp. On the upper mountain, team members will share tents. In base camp, a shower, toilet, solar charger, and a dining tent will be provided.
You can hire or buy equipment in Kathmandu. Please see the prices here: Equipment for Climbs and Trek: Renting and Purchasing
Baruntse Climbing Expedition Training and Mountain Experience
Extensive experience is not required for climbing Baruntse. The most important thing is for members to be in adequate walking fitness. You may attempt this climb as a novice and we will teach you what you need to know. No further experience is required.
To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.
To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.
Baruntse Mountain Climbing Expedition Photo Image Gallery
Baruntse Climbing Expedition Application
Please fill out an application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit to hold your place on the team.
- Application for US Team Members : PDF Form or MS Word Doc
- Application for all other Team Members : PDF Form or MS Word Doc
In addition to your application, we will need the following at least two months before the trip begins:
- Completed Payment
- Oxygen order (if any)
- Sherpa order (if any)
- Trip Registration form
- 1 Passport sized photo
- A scan of your passport identification pages
- Complete flight itinerary
- Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance. We strongly recommend Global Rescue, with at least $50,000 worth of helicopter rescue insurance.
- Trip cancellation/interruption insurance is recommended
Please contact us with any questions you may have.