Gasherbrum I Expedition - Pakistan

Our “full-service” expedition includes:

1. British, American, and European leader/coordinator
2. Expert climbing Sherpas for the group (personal Sherpas available upon request)
3. Full service trek to base camp with all teahouses and all meals
4. All internal / domestic flights (weather dependent) buses, jeeps, porters
5. 50 Kg (110 lbs.) personal baggage transport
6. Personal equipment check
7. Meeting you at the airport and airport transfer to the hotel
8. Round trip flight from Islamabad – Skardu – Islamabad (if flight not possible due to weather, than transit by road)
9. Porter and donkey transport of all equipment to and from basecamp
10. Skillful base camp cooks
11. Three meals each day, on trek, in basecamp, and at high altitude above basecamp
12. Group emergency equipment, medical equipment and satellite phone
13. Private tents in basecamp (no sharing)
14. Comfortable base camp with dining mess tent, tables and chairs, showers, bathroom, and solar charger
15. Guided training on cliffs and glaciers around basecamp
16. All ropes, tents and high altitude climbing equipment.
17. Full high altitude service to the summit and back
18. All permit fees and liaison officers
19. Two nights stay in Islamabad hotel on arrival and two nights prior to departure in a double room. Private rooms are available for a small additional fee.

What is not included?

Add on High Attitude Support: Click here for prices

• Private Sherpa (personal guide-porter) – Carries up to 20 kg (44bs) of your personal equipment, climbs with you, melts water, cooks, and will be with you every step of the way.
• Personal equipment carriage service – Sherpa carry up to 10kg (22lbs) of personal equipment up and down the mountain between camps

Oxygen: You should consider whether or not you wish to use supplemental oxygen, which is optional on G1.

We recommend a three bottle set for G1. The price includes three large 4 litre Russian Oxygen bottles, mask, regulator, hoses, as well as carriage to the high camps by porters. Extra bottles are available for an additional fee. We have a 30% buy-back policy on masks, regulators, and unused oxygen bottles in good condition.

Oxygen supplies may be purchased separately. The same buy-back policy applies.The following may be purchased individually:

• Mask and Hoses which are guaranteed to be in proper working order and match the bottles and regulator.
• Regulator for high-altitude oxygen bottle
• 4 litre Russian Oxygen bottle for high-altitude climbing

Please book oxygen/supplies well in advance. click here for prices

Our “basic-service” expedition includes

• British, American, or European leader/coordinator
• All internal / domestic flights (weather dependent), buses, jeeps, and porters
• 50 Kg personal baggage transport to base camp
• Three meals each day while traveling to/from base camp and while in basecamp
• Permit fees and liaison officers
• Group emergency equipment and satellite phone
• Two nights stay in Islamabad hotel on arrival and two nights prior to departure in a double room. Private rooms are available for a small additional fee.

• Day 1 - Arrive Islamabad. Meet our staff at airport. They will bring you to the hotel.
• Day 2 - Guided sightseeing and shopping in Islamabad (508 metres / 1,667 ft.).
• Day 3 - Fly to Skardu, transfer to Skardu hotel.
• Day 4 - Skardu sightseeing. Hotel. (2,230 metres / 7,316 feet)
• Day 5 - Skardu - Briefing at Department of Tourism. Final preparations. Hotel.
• Day 6 - Drive by Jeep to Askole, a lovely little farming village. Camp. (3,039 metres / 9,970 feet).
• Day 7 - Trek to Jhola. (3,170 metres / 10,400 feet). We enter Karakoram National Park and trek past a slope filled with garnets and cross a lovely bridge.
• Day 8 - Trek to Paiyu. (3,666 metres / 12,028 feet). Trek to this famous forest in the Baltoro Valley.
• Day 9 - Rest Day in Paiyu. On this day, porters will bake all of their bread for the upcoming trek.
• Day 10 - Trek to Khuburtse. (3,800 metres / 12,467 feet). a fabulous campsite near a lake on the edge of the Baltoro Glacier.
• Day 11 - Trek to Urdukas. (3,950 metres / 12,959 feet). Camp amongst grass and lovely giant boulders, with amazing views of the Great Trango Towers.
• Day 12 - Goro II. (4,300 metres / 14,108 feet). Camp on the flat stones on the surface of the Baltoro Glacier with lovely views of the mightiest peaks all around, like Masherbrum, Cathedral, etcetera.
• Day 13 - Concordia. (4,550 metres / 14,928 feet). Concordia must be the most famous campsite in all the Karkakoram. Incredible views of K2, Mitre Peak, Gasherbrum 4, and many more.
• Day 14 – Trek To Gasherbrum Basecamp (5,150 metres / 16,896 ft.). Set up base camp.
• Day 15 - Rest In base camp: Sherpa Prayer Ceremony (Puja): our Nepali Sherpas conduct a colourful ceremony, putting up prayer flags.
• Day 16 - Gear Check and Ice Training near basecamp. Leader and Sherpas recheck all of your gear, and we review and practice fixed rope climbing technique and glacier travel.
• Day 17 - Walk to Camp 1 at (5,950 metres / 19,521 ft.). The walk to camp 1 is on the beautiful Gasherbrum Glacier. Return to base camp.
• Day 18 - Walk to Camp 1 at (5,950 metres / 19,521 ft.). Sleep in Camp 1.
• Day 19 - Explore the route to Camp 2. Sleep in Camp 1.
• Day 20 - Climb to Camp 2. Sleep in Camp 2. (6,400 metres / 20,997 ft.)
• Day 21 - Explore the route to Camp 3. Descend to Camp 1.
• Day 22 - Descend to Base Camp.
• Day 23 - Rest in base camp.
• Day 24 - Walk to Camp 1 at (5,950 metres / 19,521 ft.). Sleep in Camp 1.
• Day 25 - Climb to Camp 2. Sleep in Camp 2. (6,400 metres / 20,997 ft.)
• Day 26 - Climb to Camp 3. Sleep in Camp 3. (7,300 metres / 23,950 ft.).
• Day 27 - Descend to Camp 1.
• Day 28 - Descend to Base Camp.
• Day 29 - Rest in base camp.
• Day 30 - Rest in base camp.
• Day 31 - Walk to Camp 1 at (5,950 metres / 19,521 ft.). Sleep in Camp 1.
• Day 32 - Climb to Camp 2. Sleep in Camp 2. (6,400 metres / 20,997 ft.)
• Day 33 - Climb to Camp 3. Sleep in Camp 3. (7,300 metres / 23,950 ft.).
• Day 34 - Attempt Summit (8,068 metres / 26,469 ft.). Return to Camp 3.
• Day 35 - Extra day for additional summit attempt.
• Day 36 - Descend to Camp 1.
• Day 37 - Descend to base camp.
• Day 37 - Descend to base camp. Pack up and prepare for departure.
• Day 38 - Follow the Upper Baltoro Glacier to Ali Camp (4,800 metres/15,748 ft.)
• Day 39 - Cross the Gondogoro La (5,585 metres / 18,323 ft.). Descend to Huisprung (4,600 metres / 15,088 ft.). Camp near a lovely lake.
• Day 40 - Trek down the Gondogoro Valley to Saitcho (3,350 metres / 10,991 ft.)
• Day 41 - Last day of trekking to Hushe Village (3,050 metres / 10,0007ft.). Drive beside the Hushe River and follow the Shyock and Indus rivers to Skardu (2,230 metres / 7,316 ft.).
• Day 42 - De-briefing at Tourism Department. Showers, laundry, shopping. Hotel
• Day 43 - Islamabad / Chilas. Hotel
• Day 44 - Final paperwork, shopping, farewell dinner in Islamabad. Hotel
• Day 45 - Fly Home (Extra days may be added for additional summit attempts).
• Day 38 - Rest in base camp.
• Day 39 - Rest in base camp.
• Day 40 - Rest in base camp.
• • Day 41 - Walk to Camp 1 at (5,950 metres / 19,521 ft.). Sleep in Camp 1.
• Day 42 - Climb to Camp 2. Sleep in Camp 2. (6,900 metres / 22,630 ft.)
• Day 43 - Climb to Camp 3. Sleep in Camp 3. (7,400 metres / 24,278 ft.).
• Day 44 - Attempt Summit (8,035 metres / 26,362 ft.). Return to Camp 3.
• Day 45 - Extra day for additional summit attempt.
• Day 46 - Descend to Camp 1.
• Day 47 - Descend to base camp. Pack up and prepare for departure.
• Day 48 - Follow the Upper Baltoro Glacier to Ali Camp (4,800 metres/15,748 ft.)
• Day 49 - Cross the Gondogoro La (5,585 metres / 18,323 ft.). Descend to Huisprung (4,600 metres / 15,088 ft.). Camp near a lovely lake.
• Day 50 - Trek down the Gondogoro Valley to Saitcho (3,350 metres / 10,991 ft.)
• Day 51 - Last day of trekking to Hushe Village (3,050 metres / 10,0007ft.). Drive beside the Hushe River and follow the Shyock and Indus rivers to Skardu (2,230 metres / 7,316 ft.).
• Day 52 - De-briefing at Tourism Department. Showers, laundry, shopping. Hotel
• Day 53 - Islamabad / Chilas. Hotel
• Day 54 - Final paperwork, shopping, farewell dinner in Islamabad. Hotel
• Day 55 - Fly Home (Extra days may be added for additional summit attempts).

Leadership: Dan Mazur is a relaxed, friendly, well organised, and highly skilled professional with over 20 years of experience leading people to the summits of Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Manaslu, and Shishapangma.

Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.

Climbing:

• Climbing harness
• 5 meters (16 ft.) of 6mm accessory cord
• Figure 8 abseil/belay device (tube style devices, i.e. ATC will not work on fixed lines)
• Full size ascender (i.e. PetzlAscention)
• 2 locking carabiners, 1 large and 1 small
• 4 non-locking carabiners
• Ice axe with leash
• Steel crampons with anti-balling plates
• Trekking poles
• Abseiling/Rappelling Gloves

Upper Body:

• 2 cotton t-shirts
• 2 synthetic t-shirts
• 2 long sleeve synthetic shirts
• Light-weight soft shell jacket
• Medium weight insulatingjacket (fleece, down, or synthetic)
• Hard shell jacket with hood, waterproof and breathable (Gore-Tex or similar)
• Heavy down coat
   
  • For 6,000m peaks a very warm down coat with hood or an 8,000m coat with hood
  • For 7,000m peaks an 8,000m coat with hood
  • For 8,000m peaks an 8,000m down coat with hood or an 8,000m suit can be used instead

Hands:

• Lightweight poly-liner gloves
• Mid-weight soft shell gloves – water/wind resistant
• Heavy- weight waterproof gloves – Gore-tex shell with removable liner
• Expedition weight mittens -Gore-tex over mitt matched polar fleece mitt liner

Head:

• Helmet
• Warm hat that covers your ears
• Balaclava
• Face mask
• Baseball hat or brimmed sun hat
• Glacier sunglasses with side shields
• Ski goggles with light and dark lenses
• Glasses with clear lenses to protect your eyes while climbing to the summit on windy nights. (cost less than 10 dollars in Kathmandu)
• Headlamp with extra batteries and bulbs
• Buff/neck gaiter
• Bandana or head scarf (optional)

Lower Body:

• Synthetic underwear
• Hiking shorts
• Hiking pants
• 2 pair lightweight thermal bottoms
• Medium or expedition weight thermal bottoms
• Polar fleece or soft shell pants
• Waterproof/breathable pants with full side zips (Gore-Tex or similar)
• Heavy insulating pants
   
  • For 6,000m peaks: Down or synthetic pants will full zips
  • For 7,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants
  • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m down pants or a 8,000m suit can be used instead

Feet:

• Boots
   
  • For 6,000m peaks: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc) Modern waterproof, single boots designed for 4-5,000m peaks may be suitable if they can be worn with 2 pairs of socks and vapor barrier lines and/or they are equipped with overboots
  • For 7,000m: Plastic or composite double boots (Koflach, La SportivaSpantik, etc)
  • For 8,000m peaks: 8,000m boots - One-Sport Millet Everest boots or equivalent
     
• Sturdy leather walking boots
• Trainers, running shoes and/or sandals
• Down booties (optional)
• 3 pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
• 2 pair poly or wool liner socks (optional)
• Vapor barrier liner socks (optional)
• 2 pair lightweight trekking socks
• Cotton socks for in town

Sleeping:

• Down sleeping bag
   
  • For 6,000m peaks: -18C or 0F
  • For 7,000m peaks:-23C or -10F (If you sleep cold consider -29C or -20F)
  • For 8,000m peaks: -29C or -20F (If you sleep cold consider -40C or -40F)
     
• An additional down sleeping bag for basecamp for the following climbs: Everest, Lhotse, AmaDablam, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I and II, Spantik, K2/Broad Peak Everest training climb. For Mastagata a second sleeping bag is optional, but highly recommended.
   
  • Down base camp sleeping bag should be rated to -10C or 15F (If you sleep cold consider -18C or 0F)
     
• 2 closed cell foam kari-mats (sleeping pads) for use in basecamp and high altitude (these can be purchased inexpensively in Kathmandu)
• High quality inflatable sleeping pad designed for cold weather (Thermarest)
• Patch kit for inflatable pad

Rucksack and Travel Bags:

• Medium rucksack/backpack (50-70 litres / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used as carry-on bag)
• Waterproof rucksack cover (optional)
• 2 large (120+ L / 7500+ cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment
• Small luggage locks for duffel kit bags

Personal Hygiene:

• Female or male hygiene supplies
• 2 tubes lip sun cream
• Large tube skin sun cream (min factor 30)
• Anti-mosquito cream
• Toothpaste/brush
• Hand sanitizer gel (small-medium bottle)
• Bar of soap small towel
• Hand wipes
• Face Mask
• Hand sanitiser
• Disposable gloves
• Disinfectant wipes

Medical:

• Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc.
• Blister repair kit
• 10 anti-diarrhea pills
• 20 anti-headache pills
• 10 cough and/or cold medicine
• Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide
• 10 Stomach antibiotics: Ciprofloxacin, etc.
• 5 Azithromycin tables
• Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
• Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
• Earplugs
• Extra prescription glasses/contact lenses and supplies

Personal Food:

• Snack food/daily energy food
   
  • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam, Baruntse: 2-4kg (4.5-9lbs)
  • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu: 2-5kg (4.5-11lbs)
  • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 3-6kg (6.5-13lbs)
     
• Dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for summit attempt
   
  • Everest training Nepal/Tibet, AmaDablam: 2 meals
  • Spantik, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Manasu, Baruntse: 3 meals
  • Broad Peak, K2, Gasherbrum I/II, K2/Everest training, Everest, Lhotse: 5 meals

Practical:
 

• Small roll of repair tape
• Sewing repair kit
• Cigarette lighter
• Small box matches
• Compass or GPS
• Battery powered alarm clock/watch
• Camera with extra cards and extra batteries
• Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage
• 2 water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene
• Pee bottle (1litre or larger)
• Plastic cup and spoon
• Small folding knife
• Binoculars (optional)
• 4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks
• Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary
• Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance
• Dollars, pounds, or euros cash
• Bank/ATM/Cash and credit cards
• Bathing suit/swim suit (you never know)
• Paperback books, playing cards, ipod/mp3 player, musical instruments, extra batteries, etc.
• Travel clothes for basecamp and in town
• Umbrella (optional)
• Small solar panels for personal electronics (optional)

Oxygen:

A 5 bottle set of oxygen is included in the cost of our full service Everest, K2, and Lhotse expeditions. It may be purchased for Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, and Manaslu.

Group Equipment:

We provide group gear, equipment, and supplies including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection, tents; stoves, fuel, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. A personal tent will be provided for each member at base camp. On the upper mountain, team members will share tents. In base camp, a shower, toilet, solar charger, and a dining tent will be provided.

Prior winter snow walking, climbing, camping, and experience at altitude is recommended. The trip includes climbing training. We will teach you everything you need to know on glaciers near basecamp. Team members should be fit and in good health. Please see our questions section for fitness training advice.

Please fill out an application and return it to us with your refundable ten-percent deposit to hold your place on the team.

• Application for US Team Members : PDF Form or MS Word Doc
• Application for all other Team Members :  PDF Form or MS Word Doc

In addition to your application, we will need the following at least two months before the trip begins:  

• Completed Payment
• Oxygen order (if any)
• Sherpa order (if any)
• Trip Registration form
• 1 Passport sized photo
• A scan of your passport identification pages
• Complete flight itinerary
• Proof of travel, accident, and repatriation insurance. We strongly recommend Global Rescue, with at least $50,000 worth of helicopter rescue insurance.
• Trip cancellation/interruption insurance is recommended

Please contact us with any questions you may have.