Manaslu Expedition News
Manaslu Expedition News
Blog posts: Scroll down for day by day news of our climbing and trekking teams.
25 Sep - The weather was good today: almost no snowfall and almost no wind and little to no cloud cover. Kind of a perfect day for climbing. Two of our members, with 2 Sherpas, climbed direct from C1 up to C3 and are resting there tonight. One of our members, with two Sherpas, climbed up to C2 and they are resting there tonight. Currently the weather is calm and it is not snowing. Good Night!
24 Sep - Our first team with 2 members and 3 Sherpas left Base Camp after breakfast and reached Camp 1 around 3 o’clock. The second team with one member and one Sherpa departed Base Camp at 1 o’clock and arrived at Camp 1 by 6 o’clock. It is currently foggy in Camp 1. All members and Sherpas are in good health!
23 Sep - Today two of our members and Sherpas had a nice rest day in BC. Our other member and his Sherpa came down from C2 to BC in the afternoon for a good rest. We are getting excited to begin our summit push very soon. Weather looks good!
Caption : The majestic pinnacle of Manaslu, seen from Base Camp.
22 Sep: The weather is very good. Two of our members and Sherpas went down to basecamp to rest. One member and Sherpa went back up to C3 to achieve further acclimatization and came down to C2 for another night’s sleep at high altitude. Our team is enjoying the dry clear weather!
Caption : Manasu Camp 3. Photo: Tenji S.
21 Sep - We woke up at a reasonable hour, had a leisurely breakfast in our tents, and then enjoyed a sunny and slow but steady paced walk up to Camp 3. Perfectly clear weather with stunning views. Finally we are above the clouds!! We were slow but did not feel badly. We came down gently, back to C2, to spend another night and increase our acclimatization to a maximal and safe level. We will keep drinking lots of liquids, eat soup and light food, along with the yummy snacks we brought with us.
Caption : Sunrise at Manaslu Camp 2. Video by : Dorje S.
Caption : Above the clouds at Camp 3! Returned to Camp 2 to recover, and acclimatize safely.
20 Sep - Today we woke up in Camp 1, had breakfast and started walking up hill, all members and Sherpas together. The weather was good, lots of visibility. We walked through a small icefall and climbed up some steep headwall sections, eventually reaching Camp 2. The weather and views were excellent. Camp 2 is located on a higher shelf in the Manaslu glacier, at the entrance to the upper Manaslu bowl. From here in C2 we can see the Camp 3 area and a steep headwall section leading up to the upper plateau of the mountain, where Camp 4 and the summit pyramid are located. We all feel tired, but we are ok, and look forward to a good nights rest and drinking lots of fluids to maintain our acclimatization.
19 Sep - It snowed 8cm in C1 last night. This morning we woke up feeling ok, so had breakfast and then walked up hill for several hours, exploring the route to C2 and reaching for higher altitudes. There is new snow on the route, but not too much, so avalanche danger is minimal. We came back down to C1 in the afternoon, had soup and hot drinks, took a nap, and then had an early dinner (we have our own cook and kitchen up here in C1 !!!) It was misty today, but did not rain and snow too much, and there is no wind. We are acclimatizing and we feel pretty good so far. We are drinking lots of water and tea and juice. Trying to stay well hydrated and focusing on acclimatization. Good night!
Caption : Climbing to Camp 2.
Caption : Members resting in Camp 2.
Caption : Manaslu camp 2.
18 Sep - Our team climbed up from BC to C1 this morning. The weather was pretty good, not much rain, a little foggy and misty. We reached C1 at noon and crawled into the tents to eat soup, drink tea, and rest and acclimatise. We are all feeling pretty good!
Caption : Climbing from Manaslu Base Camp to Camp 1 today – misty weather and acclimatizing at 5,000m+. Photo By Dorje S.
Caption : Climbing from Manaslu Base Camp to Camp 1 today – misty weather and acclimatizing at 5,000m+. Photo By Dirje S
Manaslu Camp 1 Video by : Dorje S.
17 Sep : It snowed 1cm in BC this morning, how beautiful! Our team in C1 radioed down to say that more than 10cm had fallen up there. So we decided to stay put in BC today, out of an abundance of caution, in case of avalanche. And certainly Mount Manaslu kept us entertained this morning as all of the new snow slid off of her steeper flanks with successive roars, cracks and booms. Please don't worry basecamp is well out of range. The weather in the afternoon opened a bit and we even heard a few helicopters circling around below us.
Our BC is right at the top, so we look down upon the entire basecamp, layed out beneath us like some kind of colourful crazy quilt parquet floor. Well, we hope this improved weather pattern will continue so we can move up the mountain and get acclimated to camps 2 and 3.
Caption : Snowfall in Manaslu Camp 1 – an unforgettable Himalayan adventure in Nepal. Stay at camp 1 and witness nature’s purest beauty. Photo by Dorje S.
Caption : Climbers experience snowfall while ascending to Camp 1 in Nepal. Photo by Dorje S.
16 Sep - Rest day today. We stayed around basecamp, focusing on acclimatization, eating, drinking, resting, and sleeping a lot. After yesterday’s foray to Camp 1, our plan is to remain at BC today to recover and recharge, preparing to move up to Camp 1 for a few days and nights, and then aim for Camp 2. Thanks for following our blog!
Caption : Rest day at Manaslu Base Camp, a full day focused on acclimatization, eating well, drinking plenty, resting, and sleeping to prepare for the climbs ahead. Photo: Dorje S.
15 Sept - Today we had a big breakfast and walked up to camp 1. The weather was mixed fog, mist and a few drops of rain, but not bad. Everyone made it to lower camp 1 and some members even got to upper C1. We enjoyed snacks and cokes and in upper camp 1, we even had hot tea and soup available. In upper camp 1 the sky opened for a bit and we could see the way up the mountain to Camps 2 and 3. We all felt the high altitude, and returned down to Base Camp for a rest and a big dinner. Nice day on the mountain!
Caption : Snow covered surroundings at Manaslu Camp 1. Photo : Dorje S.
Caption : Warm tea at Manaslu Camp 1, simple joys in the cold. Photo : Dorje S.
Caption : Manaslu Camp 1. Video by Dorje S.
Caption : Snow, tents, and a cloudy day, walk at Camp 1, Manaslu. Photo : Dorje S.
Caption : Up at Manaslu Camp 1: snow covered, cloudy, and freezing but worth every step! Photo : Dorje S.
Caption : Manaslu Camp 1 vibes: snowy, cold, and completely mesmerizing. Video : Dorje S.
14 Sept - Today we woke up early, ate a healthy breakfast and walked for 1 hour to the side of the manaslu glacier. Our 3 climbing Sherpas attached a climbing rope to the ice with ice screws. then we set up 4 stations, one at the base of the climb, one at the top and two at mid points on the ice. We put on all of our harnesses, helmets, crampons, and all of us practiced climbing up and down the ice using our ascenders, ice axes, crampons, safety lines, descenders, and arm abseils. We each made three full rounds of this ice-course, using the best safety practices, equipment and techniques available. We want to be sure each one of us is on the same page about climbing, mountaineering, ascending, and descending safely. We returned to camp a slightly different way so we could check out some of the other camps around us. We heard some teams have erected many tents, however they are unoccupied. interesting. We had a big lunch and then some village priests called Lamas came to our camp and they conducted an elaborate prayer ceremony with drums and cymbals and chanting and incense and peacock feathers, and Tibetan prayer books. Our Sherpas set up the prayer flags all extending out from a tall evergreen pole, so now our camp looks quite festive. After the prayers, our Sherpas had a dance party with Nepali folk songs from a boom box. After that, a group of us foreign climbers sat around the boom box and played popular songs from our home countries. It was a really nice festive and musical way to be together after such a special day of climbing training and prayer ceremony...and now we really are on the same page!!
Caption : Ice Training at Manaslu Base Camp – Practicing with harnesses, helmets, crampons, ascenders, ice axes, descenders, and safety lines for safe climbing. Photo : Dorje S.
13 Sep - Rest Day in Manaslu BC today. Eating, drinking, showers laundry, napping. Getting our personal tents (very large and comfortable) organised. We worked on our climbing harnesses, ice axes, helmets, boots and crampons in preparation for tomorrow’s training session. It was a big jump up here to Manaslu BC so today’s rest and acclimatization is very important!!
Caption : A moment of spiritual connection – the Puja ceremony at Manaslu Basecamp marking the beginning of our Himalayan ascent. Video : Dorje S.
Caption : Manaslu Base Camp, embraced by clouds, with calm weather and tents standing strong. Video : Dorje S.
Caption : The journey begins here – Manaslu Base Camp, surrounded by beauty and serenity. Photo : Lars E.
Caption : Wildlife at Manaslu Base Camp – a mountain goat spotted in its natural alpine habitat. Photo : Lars E.
12 Sep - Up early, getting packed to head to Manaslu Base Camp. The porters arrived to collect their loads a group of 20 local women dressed in skirts, sweaters, and shawls. Some of us, along with the Sherpas, took a final stroll around town for one last hurrah: sipping lattes, enjoying apple pie, and checking helicopter prices.
Then we set off on the big hike to Base Camp. We followed the river valley through lush forests along a well-maintained trail with stone steps. The trek took us out onto a ridge above Birendra Lake, traversing the valley wall opposite the mighty Manaslu Glacier, which tumbled down cliffs into the precipice below.
Now we are hiking steep switchbacks above the treeline. We reached a simple stone teahouse and went inside to escape the rain and warm ourselves by the fire, while they served juice, coffee, soup, and vegetable momos. After lunch, we continued up past waterfalls and onto a ridge that led us through the fog to a wooden sign that read: Welcome to Manaslu Base Camp.
Behind the sign stood a massive tent, resembling a giant white mushroom, and the occupants kindly invited us in for coffee and cake. Hospitality extraordinaire!
Then we hiked uphill past what seemed like hundreds of tents until we reached our very comfortable Base Camp. Each of us has our own private tent that we can stand up in, along with a large, warm, and cozy dining tent. There are also hot shower tents, toilet tents, a wash tent, Sherpa dining and sleeping tents, and multiple kitchen and storage tents.
Ours is quite an elaborate basecamp overall. Once we settled in, the clouds parted, giving us a magical evening view of the Manaslu summit and the Camp 3 and Camp 4 areas. Truly special! The kitchen team prepared an incredible evening meal for us, and we really felt: Welcome to Manaslu Basecamp!
Caption : Simple stone teahouse on the way to Manaslu Base camp , warming ourselves by the fire as juice, coffee, soup, and vegetable momos were served.
Caption : The trek revealed breathtaking views – Birendra Lake below and the mighty Manaslu Glacier cascading from the cliffs across the valley.
Caption : A wooden sign greets us with the words: Welcome to Manaslu Base Camp – the beginning of a remarkable journey.
Caption : Forest, clouds, and Birendra Lake – a perfect harmony of nature.
11 Sep - A leisurely, cloudy, and warm morning led into a gentle stroll to the local temple. There, we met the high priest a venerable yet energetic old gentleman who conducted an elaborate 30-minute prayer ceremony exclusively for our team. The ritual involved ancient Tibetan texts, pitchers of sacred liquids, bells and prayer shakers, crimson strings, prayer flags, and the steady beat of a massive wooden drum. He blessed all our team members and Sherpas as we sat on benches along the side of a tall golden hall, filled with statues and every surface ornately painted with ancient Buddhas, crowned by an impressive cupola skylight. We knelt before the lama and recited chants while he tied a sacred prayer string around our necks, as we presented him with a prayer scarf containing something special. After the ceremony, we explored the monastery grounds, discovering numerous temples and guesthouses, and found the place to be vast and deeply impressive. The rest of the day was spent sipping handmade cappuccinos, enjoying fresh homemade apple pie, sharing stories of our homes and families, and simply relaxing a fine, restful day in the lovely village of Samagaon.
Caption : Receiving a sacred blessing from a monk, a moment of spiritual grace. Video : Tomas K.
Caption : Watching young monks go to school. Offering khadas in Samagaun.
Caption : Spinning the huge prayer wheel by our Sherpa – a moment of peace, blessings, and Himalayan tradition. Video by Dan.
10 Sep - Today, our two teams reunited in the small Himalayan village of Samdo and enjoyed a delicious breakfast together. The day’s walk was gorgeous, taking us down through a wide, flat-bottomed valley with dense jungle on either side. We passed countless yaks and donkeys, thick forests, and steep green mountains capped with snow. Along the way, three massive Lammergeier birds soared just above the trail. We also came across 46 monks, aged 10 to 30, who were visiting local temples for prayer ceremonies. They were trekking along the trail carrying their own sleeping bags and food. The weather was especially warm and sunny as we made our way to the famous local town of Samagaon home to many hotels, a coffee shop, and even a bakery. We quickly got comfortable, enjoying fresh coffee, tasty meals, hot showers, laundry service, reliable charging, fast Wi-Fi, and spacious private rooms. After so many days of trekking, it’s time to soak up these creature comforts!
Caption : Trekking through valleys and forests, we arrived in Samagaon, refreshed with coffee and hot showers, and joined in local prayer ceremonies. Photo : Mathias S.
9 Sep - We woke up early and crossed Larkya La, the highest pass on this trek. Enjoyed good views, then got a light sprinkle on the way down. Had lunch in Dharamsala. Two members with Sherpas went down to Samdo to breathe thicker air, while two members with Sherpas stayed in Dharamsala to acclimate further. We’ll all meet in Samdo for breakfast.
Caption : Members enjoying the stunning glacier lake and the thrill of Larkya La Pass at 5,160m on the way to Dharamsala. Photo : Mathias S. and Erikson.
Caption :Group of our friendly Sherpas. Photo : Mathias S.
Caption : Panoramic Himalayan views from Larkya La – simply breathtaking. Video by Dorje S.
8 Sep - Woke up this morning at the beautiful Bimthang Lodge. Enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, then a 2-hour walk to Larche Phedi in mixed rain and clouds. Had delicious lunch and dinner, plenty of rest, and now preparing for tomorrow it’s going to be a big day!
Caption : Morning bliss at the beautiful Bimthang Lodge, surrounded by Himalayan giants. Photo By Lars E.
7 Sep - We woke a bit early today and enjoyed breakfast with coffee. Our trail climbed uphill, and we stopped for tea at Jungli Kharkha. High on the cliffs above, we spotted two massive hanging honeybee hives. The locals told us that at the end of October they will climb up to harvest the honey. As the clouds parted, we caught a breathtaking view of Manaslu North, an enormous 7,000-metre peak towering overhead. We continued uphill through old-growth forests of fir trees, many more than a metre in diameter, surrounded by countless rhododendron species. When the sun broke through, the birds burst into song. Higher up, the forest shifted to paper birch trees. Rounding a bend, we suddenly came upon a large hydro project at the tree line. Crossing a steel bridge, we followed power poles through meadows and gently rising valleys until we reached a vast grassy plain Donkey Heaven. Here lies the hamlet of Bimthang, home to around 20 lodges. We’re staying in a very nice one good food, kind people, and comfortable beds. It didn’t rain today, though clouds drifted low across the valley. Looking forward to a good night’s sleep and tomorrow’s adventure.
Caption : Nature at its finest – clouds, peaks, and the river in harmony at Bimthang.
Caption : A perfect trekking moment – waterfalls, bridges, and mountains all in one frame.
6 Sep -We had a leisurely breakfast in the lovely Gowa Lodge dining room, then set off on a gorgeous sunny morning beneath blue skies dotted with a few puffy clouds. We climbed up through the Dudh Kohla valley, passing through thick coniferous and deciduous forests. The path remained wide more like a road, really traversing high above the river, until it suddenly ended at a motorbike parking area where the Soti Khola joins the main river. There, two charming small lodges made the perfect spot for tea in the shade of juniper trees and flower-filled gardens. From that point, the trail grew narrower and muddier a true donkey track until we joined a newly built path, even equipped with stone steps and handrails in places. This new trail seemed far more donkey-proof. Kudos to the trail builders and ACAP well done! After a steep climb through foggy jungle, we emerged into a wide meadow and arrived at Yak Karka just as the rain began to sprinkle. We are now staying in a very comfortable tea house with fresh new bedrooms and a warm wooden dining room. They even lit the wood stove for us tonight. How pleasant!
Today we saw Larkya Peak towering in the distance, crowned with fresh snow and hanging glaciers an amazing sight!
Caption : A peaceful journey along Dudh Khola, surrounded by thick green forests. Photo by Lars E. and Tomas K.
Caption : A perfect trekking day: scenic lodges, towering Larkya Pass, and the rhythmic crossing of iron bridges towards the Dudh Koshi. Photo by Lars E.
Caption : The little joys of trekking, a boy waving at us, flowers in bloom, and a touch of clouds in the sunny sky. photo by Lars E.
Caption : Bimthang’s charm: Himalayan villages, hardworking locals, and timeless scenery. Photo by Thomas.
5 Sep - Ate a good breakfast and finished packing up. Donkeys are carrying our climbing gear direct to base camp. For our trek we have a team of 5 loyal hardworking porters who are carrying our trekking bags. We walked along a wide path/road following the Dudh Kohla river valley. It’s absolutely stunning here: lush jungles, steep cliffs, long drop waterfalls falling 100s of metres into misty rainbows. Acres and acres of wild marijuana plants. Little farms and gardens hosting wide varieties of vegetables. Large apple orchards with well pruned trees loaded with deep red fruit. We came along to Gowa Village with a collection of well maintained teahouses and chose one with individual guest cabins. Seems like summer camp. After a big lunch in a well appointed hand hewn wooden dining room, some of us lounged around and others went for a digestive walk. Later we read books, napped, caught up on email, ate dinner and went to our very comfortable beds with thick mattresses. Good night!!
Caption : River winding through lush forest. Cozy stone chimney with blue roof in stunning landscape.
Caption : Donkeys carrying our gear to base camp.
4 Sep - Delicious breakfast at our very comfortable and pleasant Besisahar hotel. Boarded our Mahindra Bolero 4wd for the careful drive up the Marsyangdi River. Raging rapids and deep gorges with pounding waterfalls and jungles throughout. Lunch at Scenic Boon Falls. So many old and new hydroelectric projects up here. The road is a testimony to what rebar and concrete can do to keep the road attached to a sheer cliff. Arrived in Dharapani, the traditional road end then decided to carry on to Tilje, the HQ of donkey and porter transportation in this corner of Manang District. We are staying in a traditional village which has developed into the Manaslu trek starting point with many hotels lining a few narrow streets large enough for two loaded donkeys to pass. Today began sunny then became cloudy with a few drops of light rain in the afternoon. Nice dinner in a hand carved wooden dining room. Very atmospheric.
Caption : Delicious breakfast in Besisahar. Enjoying the Boon Falls.
Caption : Our Mahindra Bolero 4wd for the careful drive up the Marsyangdi River.
3 Sep - Today we had a delicious early breakfast at our clean, quiet, and nice hotel. We prepared our storage bags for the hotel locker and we loaded our expedition bags onto our comfortable spacious new ac Toyota van. We drove through morning rush hour Kathmandu traffic. Then we were finally on the road. Stopping a few times along the way we made it to a lovely Trisuli River resort under big trees where we enjoyed delicious buffet lunch beside the roaring rapids. After a few more hours we arrived at Besisahar village, capital of Lamjung Province at 4pm. Today’s road was a bit bumpy, but overall not bad at all, and our expert driver drove smoothly and steadily. The scenery was so lovely and green. Besisahar is a big town with many shops and restaurants. Surpringly we have seen very few tourists. Our hotel here is good and clean and the food is nice, offering lots of menu choices.
Caption: SummitClimb Manaslu Expedition group photo.
2 Sep - Today we had a nice breakfast in the Harati Hotel. Then took off on a guided tour of Kathmandu’s famous temples: Pashupatinath (where bodies are cremated) and Boudhnath, the famous huge Stupa that people walk around 108 times to forgive a lifetime of sin. Then we ate lunch at Himalayan Java, Nepal’s original and still the most famous and best coffee shop. After lunch we shopped for delicious snack food, changed money, did some more mountain gear shopping, went to a cash machine, and bought our personal medicines. Back in the hotel we packed, rested, and then went out to dinner at Ying Yang, one of Nepal’s finest gourmet restaurants. Then we hit Sam’s bar for some rum and cokes (Cuba Libre), scotch and sodas, and beers. Finally it was back to the hotel to catch up on phone calls, emails, and to finish packing. What a fantastic day!!!
10 anti-diarrhea pills. Loperamide
20 anti-headache pills. Paracetamol
10 ibuprofen
10 cough and/or cold medicine: decold.
Anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide
10 Stomach antibiotics: Ciprofloxacin, etc.
5 Azithromycin tables
Steri pen or bottle of water purification tablets
40 Cough sweets/lozenges (Halls/Stepils)
Earplugs
Caption : photo 1, Member City tour at the most famous Hindu temple - Pashupatinath and photo 2, Group Dinner at Ying yang.
1 Sep - The members arrived today and we all met one another and we met some of our Sherpas too. We checked the members gear and they went to the mountain shop and rented/hired all of their necessary items such as summit boots and summit suits, sleeping bags, mattresses, duffle bags, harnesses, helmets, ice axes, etc. We had a delicious dinner and a nightcap afterward. It seems like we have a very good team!! Thanks for following our news.
Caption : Member Checking their gear at mountain shop.
Team Roster -
- Dan Mazur (Leader), UK/USA
- Mathias S.
- Lars E.
- Tomas K.
Climbing :
- Dorje Sherpa
- Tenji Sherpa
- Gelbu Sherpa