Manaslu Expedition News 2015
Manaslu Expedition News 2015
Please scroll down to see nice photos and interesting blogs!
Yesterday our team of men and women of all ages and abilities returned from the lovely and fun big glacier climbing above camp 2. We are down here in BC for a rest, where I am able to write to you on this fast satellite internet connection. We are climbing the world's 8th highest and Nepal's easiest 8000 metre / 26,000 foot high peak. It's a gorgeous snowy Nepalese giant in the Annapurna region, with vast icefields perched above tiny villages in thick forests, surrounded by huge frozen giant mountains poking their heads out of cloud encrusted valleys with jungles, potato fields and yaks grazing on steep slopes far below. The weather has been very good, with lots of sunny days mixed in with a few snowy ones. The climbing action and scenery are incredible here. Please visit www.ManasluNews.com to laugh, love, and gasp at the beauty of the mountains (and thin air). By the way, Mount Manaslu, like Mount Cho Oyu and Mount Shishapangma are known as the best possible training peaks for Mount Everest !!
- 1 Oct
- 30 Sept
- 29 Sept
- 28 Sept
- 27 Sept
- 26 Sept
- 25 Sept
- 24 Sept
- 20 Sept
- 19 Sept
- 18 Sept
- 17 Sept
- 16 Sept
- 15 Sept
- 14 Sept
- 13 Sept
- 12 Sept
- 11 Sept
- 10 Sept
- 9 Sept
- 8 Sept
- 7 Sept
- 6 Sept
- 5 Sept
- 4 Sept
- 3 Sept
- 2 Sept
- Team Roster
1 Oct - Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur :
- Now we are on top of summit: Marin, Jean-Luc, Dan. Jangbu, NaTenji. We can see Everest. Hope we will get down ok. Tricky. Be careful!
- After climbing through the night, we are now 100m / 300ft below the summit. Sun is rising, all Nepal and Tibet peaks are spread out far below
- Midnight now. We are in the tent filling water bottles, drinking hot tea. Clear starry skies. No wind. Come on team, let's go to the summit!
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur :
- We are @ C4. Route is very good, no crevasse. Met Dan, Vincent, Philippe, Santiago, Viktor, Boyan, 9 Sherpas. Congratulations. We go 2nite.
- Word just in. First group summited a few hours ago. Congratulations!
- Just awoke in Camp 3, first cup of tea. OK night @ 6800m / 22,300ft. Climbing up to C4 today. Try summit tonight. Our 2 trying summit now.
Jangbu Sherpa climbing the icefall in the early morning hours. Manaslu summit in background. Marin Minamiya Photo. Evening scene in Camp 1. Marin Minamiya Photo. Descending the Manaslu glacier to Camp 1. Daniel Mazur Photo
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur :
- Dan + Vincent climb C4. They try summit tonight. 4 members now in C3; going C4 in AM. 4 Sherpas return from C4: route perfect; no crevasses!
- Sherpas just radioed. They were able to fix rope across the big scary crevasse and have now reached C4 @ 7400m / 24000ft. Summit in sight!
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur :
- Wind + snow in C2 today. @ 4pm wind stopped. Forecast says clear. We will move to C3. Sherpas will try 2 overcome crevasse problem above C3
- In Camp 2 we have a wind and snow storm. Flapping nylon tents make sleep elusive. If its any consolation, this storm was in the forecast.
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur :
- We climbed to C2 in warm sunshine, along well packed snow paths, clipping good ropes across deep crevasses. Loyal Sherpas reset 2 ladders.
- Wakeup C1. Clear windless dawn over Tibetan border peaks. Clouds fill the valley below and Manaslu stands tall above. Let's climb to C2.
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: All team in Camp 1. Its a clear moonlit nite with no wind. Below us we can see a thick floor of clouds with just a few peak tops poking out.
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur:
- Large crevasse above C3. Need 2-3 ladders to bridge. Who will carry after 1st teams retreat to BC? High winds forecast for 27-28. Strategy!
- Update on Sherpa from other team fell in crevasse: Doctor exam - no broken bones - lucky! Now our team fixing rope. Weather forecast good!
- Rope fixers return BC. Apparently a Sherpa from other team fell in crevasse. More info tomorrow. Ropes not fixed to C4. High wind forecast.
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Our team begins summit push today. All are feeling healthy, excited. We plan 5 day ascent. BC to C1 to C2 to C3 to C4 to Summit back to C2
Vincent Callet climbing above Camp 1, which is visible in the centre left. Daniel Mazur Photo. Team climbing the icewall between Camp 1 and Camp 2. Marin Minamiya Photo. Marin and Jangbu climbing high above the Manaslu Glacier. Daniel Mazur Photo
Dear Manaslu News Readers. Thanks for following the news of our expedition.
Today is 20 September and I am writing from our lovely basecamp where we are enjoying a few restful days before attempting the summit. Our expedition climbing has been going well on the high mountain and we have come down for a break.
We are just back from 4 days exploring the upper reaches of Manaslu, including Camp 1, Camp 2, and above. During our sojourn up there in the thin air we climbed through a lot of beautiful snow and gorgeous glaciers, and enjoyed some lovely camping experiences in the upper camps while acclimating. The weather changed several times while we were up there and fresh snow was abundant here and there. At opportune moments the sun generously popped out and consolidated the snow rapidly. This mountain is like a living and breathing organism pulsing with life and constantly changing with, sunshine, storms, clouds, snow and inspiring views of deep valleys and lofty Himalayan summits.
How is life in basecamp? We have a very comfortable restaurant tent here with carpeting and a warm friendly environment. Inside are all of our chairs and tables over carpeting with our own skillful cook and table wait staff.
The food is superb with lots of fresh local ingredients locally available from the villages below such as vegetables, salads, potatoes, pasta, rice, meats for the meat eaters, eggs, cheeses, even fresh breads! Each of us have our own personal sleeping tent with extra thick mattress and spacious dry, warm area to spread out our things. Each day we wake up in sunshine of our private tents with a wash in warm water and then enjoy morning coffee / tea / juice and a delicious breakfast. Following this, we might head for a warm shower with plenty of hot water or scan today's news on the internet. Then a delicious lunch with many types and flavours of food to choose from with a very wide selection of drinks. There are always many interesting sorts of people around to converse with and I think the entire basecamp might contain more than 12 expeditions, with members representing at least 30 different nationalities. When the mountains pop out of the clouds, we have really galvanising views and we can look around to see many local towering peaks such as Mount Larkya and Mount Ganesh, not to mention, mighty Mount Manaslu which looms directly above us so massively like an icon pointing straight up to heaven. In the afternoons and evenings, our more media savvy members often enjoy the large selection of dvds and movies on hand with plenty of new releases. We have our own dvd/movie player and it also has a nice sound system on which some of our members can enjoy playing music from their ipods and mp3 players. Everyone has brought books and magazines so there is plenty of sharing of reading material. Also, we have games like chess, cards, uno, and backgammon. Tournements are springing up.
We are waiting for a good chance to go to the summit and hope that on the 23rd of September clear weather will ensue and we could set off for camps 1, 2, 3, and 4 and then attempt to reach the summit on 27 September. We all have our fingers crossed that Mount Manaslu will let us embrace her top.
Thanks for following our news. Please watch for more blogs and photos. Yours Sincerely, Dan Mazur. Mount Manaslu Expedition Leader Back to top
Member of the Czech team cuts a beautiful turn in Camp 1. Daniel Mazur Photo. Vincent Callet discusses the finer points of skiing with the Czech team in Camp 1. Daniel Mazur Photo
Dan and Marin traversing an ice wall while descending from Camp 2 to camp 1 during a blizzard. Jangbu Sherpa Photo. Dan walking into Camp 1 during a snow storm. Jangbu Sherpa Photo
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Team in basecamp resting. Hot showers. Delicious food, drinks. Last night's movie and music party fun. Comfy tent and bed: best sleep ever! Back to top
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Morning here in Camp 2. Heavy snow is falling now. Overnight accumulation 25cm / 10in. We are going down to BC. Hope we don't get avalanched Back to top
Crossing a crevasse. Marin Minamiya Photo. Czech ski team member tearing up the snow in camp 1. Daniel Mazur Photo
Another team descends from Camp 1 with the Larkya glacier in the background. Daniel Mazur photo. Big icicle wall along the route from C1 to C2. Jangbu Sherpa Photo
Packing our high altitude food. Marin Minamiya Photo. Dan climbing above Camp 1, on the way to Camp 2, with Camp 1 in the background. Jangbu Sherpa Photo
Jean Luc Bremond, our Manaslu team member in Samagaon village. Photo Zoltan Benedek. Walking in wet snow to camp 1, Marin uses a plastic bag as a waterproof rucksack cover. Na Tenji Sherpa Photo
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur:
- Team in C2. Snowing all day. Now night. Hope no avalanche will strike C2 tonight. Tomorrow: good weather go C3, bad weather go basecamp.
- AVALANCHE STRIKES other team above C2. They are ok. A 40 degree slope broke, 60m / 200ft high. Slab 20cm / 8in thick. Team thrown 20m / 66ft Back to top
Jean Luc and Zoltan making breakfast in Camp 1. Marin Minamiya Photo. Jangbu, Vincent, Na Tenji and Marin, preparing to depart Camp 2 in a blizzard. Daniel Mazur Photo
Team discusses what to do during a heavy snow storm in Camp 1. Marin Minamiya Photo. Team preparing to evacuate Camp 2 in a blizzard. Marin Minamiya Photo
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur:
- We are @ C2 6400m / 21,000ft. 7-8 hour walk. Route in good shape. Strong ropes, ladders. Members, Sherpas fine. Warm, no wind, light cloud.
- Now 3:40 am. No snow for 17 hours. No avalanches, so snow is settled. Now clear starlit skies above. No wind. Lets go carefully up to C2 ! Back to top
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur:
- Weather clears here in C1. We can contact C2. Six people are there; 2 want to come down and 4 to go up. If weather holds, we go up tonight.
- Now big snowfall, 12 cm / 5 inches so far. Our team in C1 are safe. Worry about C2 above. Hear many avalanches up there. No radio contact C2. Back to top
Jacinta shows ice climbing training gear - axe, ascender, safety line. Jangbu Sherpa Photo. Jacinta doing ice climbing training. Jangbu Sherpa Photo. Marin, comfortable in her individual tent home in Camp 1. Daniel Mazur Photo
High efficiency low emission basecamp cook stove. Made in Korea. Photo Zoltan Benedek. Jangbu Sherpa prepares a delicious meal in Camp 1 during a snowstorm. Daniel Mazur Photo. Na Tenji and Marin at dinner time in Camp 1. Na Tenji Sherpa Photo
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: In Camp 1. Light snow, cloud. Morning ascend Camp 2. Weather forecast stabile until big storm's supposed to come on 17-18. Fingers crossed! Back to top
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Rest in base, prepare for next days climb to 7000m / 23,000ft. Yay Jacinta and Daniel are here. Jason helicoptered to KTM. We miss you. Back to top
Relaxing in our comfortable basecamp tent. Marin Minamiya Photo. Team photo in a blizzard in camp 1. Daniel Mazur Photo
View up to Manaslu summit in the early morning. Marin Minamiya Photo. Vincent Callet and Na Tenji Sherpa preparing to depart Camp 1 in the early morning. Marin Minamiya Photo
Zoltan and Jean Luc photographing a snow bird in Camp 1. Marin Minamiya Photo. Zoltan Benedek points the way to Manaslu from basecamp. Photo Jean Luc Bremond
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Resting today. It snowed earlier, now stars are out. Weather forecast calls for heavy snow. Now very clear, quiet: hard to believe forecast.
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Members hastily retreat to basecamp. Heavy storm: deep snow. All members safe. Sherpas make a prayer flag ceremony and bless expedition
Basecamp prayer ceremony- blessing the gear and stretching out the prayer flags. Marin Minamiya Photo. Basecamp with glacier behind on a cloudy day. Marin Minamiya Photo Back to top
First of many delicious meals in the basecamp kitchen. Marin Minamiya Photo. Jean Luc and Zoltan at the basecamp prayer ceremony. Photo by Pasang
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Sunny rest day in Camp 1: 5750m / 18,860ft. Tonight @ 1am we attempt Camp 2: 6800m / 22,300ft. Route is steep glacier. Please wish us luck!
Camp 1 - looking up toward camp 2. Dan Mazur Photo. Camp 1 in the morning. Larkya Peak behind. Jean Luc Bremond Photo Back to top
Marin staying warm in her down suit in her tent in Camp 2. Na Tenji Sherpa Photo Jangbu Sherpa helps prepare Marin's harness for climbing Manaslu. Marin Minamiya Photo. Jangbu, Marin, Vincent, and Jason in Camp 1. Dan Mazur photo
Jason cooks delicious food in Camp 1. Marin Minamiya Photo. Jean Luc Bremond at 6,500 metres on Manaslu. Photo Zoltan Benedek.
Jean Luc Bremond climbing up to camp 2. Photo Zoltan Benedek. Jean Luc Bremond in camp 1 preparing to go inside the tent. Photo Zoltan Benedek.
Jean Luc Bremond in camp 1. Photo Zoltan Benedek. Vincent prepares to climb the fixed lines while Jason Craddock looks on. Marin Minamiya Photo
Walking up the flat glacier to Camp 1. Marin Minamiya Photo. Zoltan slices off a large piece of cheese in Camp 1. Photo Jean Luc Bremond
Zoltan Benedek climbs the steep wall toward camp 2. Jean Luc Bremond Photo. Zoltan prepares for the departure from camp 1 at 5 am, headed for camp 2. Photo Jean Luc Bremond.
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Began with BC ice training 2 new members. 6 of us are sleeping in Camp 1 tonight. Beautiful sunset across the Himalayan peaks and valleys!
Dan Mazur demonstrates the arm rappel-abseil (used for less steeper ground) during the ice training session. Jason Craddock Photo. Marin, Dan, Vincent and Jangbu ice training below the summit of Manaslu. Jason Craddock Photo Back to top
Dan Mazur works with Vincent Callet on fixed rope technique while Jason Craddock looks on. Marin Minamiya Photo. Dan Trevena. Ice climbing practice near basecamp. Dan Mazur photo
Jacinta abseils while Dan holds the fireman rapell - abseil. Ice climbing practice near basecamp. Dan Mazur photo. Jacinta climbs ice during fixed rope training. Dan Mazur photo
Marin Minamiya prepares to abseil - rappel during ice training. Dan Mazur photo. Vincent Callet ascends the training ropes while Jangbu spots him. Marin Minamiya Photo.Na Tenji and Jangbu Sherpa at the fixed rope training station. Marin Minamiya Photo
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Climb to camp 1. Gorgeous weather. Glacier perfect. Reached 5750m / 18,860ft. All feeling well. 2 more members arrived BC. Team is complete! Back to top
Marin reaches Manaslu basecamp. Vincent Callet Photo. Marin prepares her climbing gear in her tent. Marin Minamiya Photo
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Good weather. We're in 3 groups: two people rest Sama, 4 doing glacier training, two walking to camp 1. Our basecamp is a comfortable oasis.
Manaslu summit left, 'Forepeak' right. Photo Jean Luc Bremond. Basecamp prayer ceremony group photo. Dan, Jangbu, Marin, Vincent, Jason, Na Tenji. Zoltan Benedek photo
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: We're in basecamp. Giant peaks. Vast ice flows. Delicious lunch. Now preparing our axes, crampons, harness, helmets. Ice training tomorrow! Back to top
Marin's comfortable individual basecamp tent. Each member has their own tent. Marin Minamiya Photo. Our Basecamp at 4750 metres - 15,500 feet. Photo by Jean Luc Bremond
Jean Luc Bremond smooching a horse. Photo Zoltan Benedek. Marin enjoying the trek through the lush jungle, past Manaslu lake to Mount Manaslu. Marin Minamiya Photo. Marin's basecamp reading material. Marin Minamiya Photo
Our communications tent. Zoltan, Jean Luc, and Dan, sending emails, sms, text, and making satellite phone calls. Marin Minamiya Photo. Porters and yaks carrying past the Manaslu glacier on the way to basecamp. Marin Minamiya Photo
Porters, yaks, horses taking a break on the way to Manaslu basecamp. Marin Minamiya Photo. Vincent Callet enjoys a hot cup of tea in the basecamp kitchen. Marin Minamiya Photo
5 Sept -
Greetings from our Mount Manaslu expedition. All members have arrived and we are a complete team of 8 members and 5 Sherpas. Its really fun to be together up here at 3450m / 11,300 ft high Samagaon vilage with so much gorgeous greenery ancient temples, and giant Himalayan glacier peaks surrounding us. Back to top
Our members are doing very well and 6 of 8 have been all of the way to basecamp at 4700m / 15,400ft. Basecamp is an amazing place, a tiny island of rock sandwiched between 2 massive ice glaciers; green slopes and waterfalls dropping away below into the abyss.
Our two final members arrived this morning and we enjoyed hanging out together and walking around the village.
Tomorrow we set off for basecamp. Let the climb begin!!!
Dan Mazur, our Manaslu team leader, chats on the phone in Samagaon village. Photo Zoltan Benedek. Jewelry worn by herdsman in Samagaon village. Photo Zoltan Benedek
Fresh pomegranates in basecamp. Marin Minamiya Photo. Jason Craddock, Dan Mazur and local villagers out for a stroll in Samagaon village. Photo Zoltan Benedek
Girls walking to school while their little brother plays alongside in Arughat Bazaar. Photo Zoltan Benedek. Goats on the road to Arughat Bazaar. Photo Zoltan Benedek
Child in Samagaon village. Photo Zoltan Benedek. Herdsman in Samagaon village. Photo Zoltan Benedek
Statue at temple in Samagaon Village. Marin Minamiya Photo. Statue of king at temple in Samagaon Village. Marin Minamiya Photo. Woman praying in Samagaon Village. Marin Minamiya Photo
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Half of our team took a big sunny hike to Manaslu basecamp today. We reached 47OOm / 15,480ft, then returned back to Sama Village. Stunning!
Trekking to Manaslu. Marin Minamiya Photo. Wild poppies in Samagaon Village. Marin Minamiya Photo.
Paintings at temple in Samagaon Village. Marin Minamiya Photo. Team enjoying a delicious meal in Samagaon Village. Jean Luc Bremond Photo
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Acclimatizing today. Visiting 400 year old temple. Trekking toward basecamp. 2 members reach KTM today: Daniel and Jacinta. Soon together!
Beautiful blue wildflowers in Samagaon Village. Marin Minamiya Photo. Ceiling of the temple at Samagaon Village. Marin Minamiya Photo.
Helicopter to Samagaon Village. Photo Jean Luc Bremond. Kids in Samagaon village. Jean Luc Bremond Photo
Gentleman creating bamboo baskets along the Manaslu Trek. Photo by Jean Luc Bremond. Painting at temple in Samagaon Village. Marin Minamiya Photo
Update from Expedition leader Dan Mazur: Manaslu team now stationed at 3500m / 11500ft in lovely green Samagaon valley. We flew here from KTM. All members ok, awaiting headache!
Buddha's all seeing eyes at the monastery in Samagaon village. Photo Zoltan Benedek. Dawa Sherpa and Marin Minamiya, Manaslu team member in Samagaon village. Photo Zoltan Benedek
Marin with the pilot, flying the helicopter to basecamp. Jean Luc and Zoltan enjoying delicious fresh juice in the fruit shop. Photo by shopkeeper
Our comfortable hotel in KTM. Marin Minamiya Photo. Jean Luc and Elizabeth Hawley, chronicler of Himalaya. Photo by Jason Craddock. Our hotel in Kathmandu. Photo Jean Luc Bremond
- Dan Mazur (Leader) - UK/USA
- Marin Minamiya
- Jason Craddock
- Vincent Callet
- Daniel Trevena - Basic Service Member
- Jean Luc Bremond - Basic Service Member
- Zolton Benedek - Basic Service Member
- Jacinta O'Neill - Basic Service Member Back to top