Cho Oyu : News of our expedition

Blog Posts: Please click one of the links below to go directly to that blog post or just scroll down. 

• 24 May
• 21 May
• 19 May
• 17 May
• 16 May
• 13 May
• 12 May
• 11 May
• 9 May
• 8 May
• 6 May
• 5 May
• 3 May
• 2 May
• 1 May
• 30 April
• 29 April Eve
• 29 April
• 27 April
• 25 April
• Team Roster

24 May -

Why do que climb mountains? (Easy answer): Because we like them How do we climb them? Answer: Placing a foot in front of the other, once and once more..

Yesterday we placed a foot in front of the other, many many times, until we could not do it anymore.
At 10:30 Nepal time, the slope turned flat, and there were nothing else to be climbed. We were at the highest point in the region, and we could touch the sky with our bare hands.
  
Incredibly these moments are lived either with Intensity and Neutrality or Emotion and Passion. - In this expedition, the summit was lived such the first type. We could barely spend 10 minutes on the top, because of the clouds and wind approaching us, and pushing us to descend. The Turquoise Goddess allowed us to climb her, thus at that time she was pushing us to descend.
  
We are leaving ABC by now trekking to Diablum to take a jeep to Zhangmu right at the border with Nepal.
  
Tomorrow I promise you pictures. This Dispatch is just to tell you we are all Ok and happy. Back to top

Summiters

• Pascal Tiercelin
• Dimitry Nichiripov
• Anders Bergvall
• Pemba Sherpa
• Ang Khami Sherpa
• Dawa Jangbu Lama
• Jangbu Sherpa
• Angel Ezequiel Armesto

Spanish Version

Por que subimos montanas? ( respuesta facil): Porque nos gusta.
Como las subimos? Respuesta: Poniendo un pie enfrente del otro, una y otra vez.

Ayer pusimos un pie delante del otro, muchas, muchas veces. Hasta que no pudimos hacerlo mas.

A las 10:30 la pendiente cayo, y no hubo mas por escalar. Estabamos en el punto mas alto de la region, y podiamos tocar el cielo con las manos.
Increiblemente estos momentos se viven con intensidad y naturalidad algunas veces y con entrega y emocion en otras. Esta expedicion fue de las primeras, y apenas pudimos detenernos 10 minutos por las nubes y el viento que nos apuro a descender cuanto antes. La Diosa Turquesa nos dejo subir, pero ahora queria que bajasemos.

Estamos dejando campo base, descendiendo hacia a Diablum para segir en Jeep y Camion de carga hasta el Campo Base Chino, y luego hasta Zhangmu, limite con Nepal, donde pasaremos la noche.

Cumbres

• Pascal Tiercelin
• Dimitry Nichiripov
• Anders Bergvall
• Pemba Sherpa
• Ang Khami Sherpa
• Dawa Jangbu Lama
• Jangbu Sherpa
• Angel Ezequiel Armesto

CHO OYU 2014 SPRING: MEMBERS AND SHERPA SUMMIT 10:30 NEPAL TIME WE REACH TOMORROW AT ZHANGMU Back to top

21 May -

There is an atmosphere of excitement and anxiety in the air, combined with the joy of finally leaving ABC on our final push.

Everyone awoke late, packed up with all the tranquillity in the world and then made their own way to the dinning tent. I guess any Orchestra director would be in a hurry before directing a classic masterpiece of all times. I can hear far at the distance "The ride of Valkyrie" and I can imagine the whole team climbing the final plateau.

Everyone has packed and left camp already. As always I await for everyone to leave and dedicate a bit of time to myself to put in words what I feel. I hope these lines will entertain you.

I live this moment with the same intensity of the members. I charge on my shoulders the responsibility of knowing I have the director's wand and by now my heart beats in an allegro rhythm. Our Cho Oyu Opera is in the final act and we have to do our best and give our best to have upon return the welcome back and celebration we deserve, coming from ourselves to ourselves.

The weather forecast is excellent, so we are expecting to summit on 23th midday. There will be no contact until we return to ABC on 24th afternoon Nepal time.

Please send good vibes and energy to all of us, over there, closer to heaven - we will get it without interference!
Back to top

The Spanish version

En el campo base hay una atmosfera de exitacion y ansiedad en el ambiente, combinada con la alegria de que finalmente estamos saliendo para el empujon final.
   
Todos se han despertado tarde, empacado con toda la tranquilidad del mundo, y luego sentado en la carpa comedor. Supongo ningun director de orquesta se apresura antes de dirijir una obra maestra de los clasicos de todos los tiempos....Oigo a lo lejos, "The ride of valkirye" y me imagino con todo el equipo, subiendo al plato final.
   
Ya todos empacaron, y salieron. Yo como siempre espero a salir despues de todo el mundo, y me dedico tiempo a escribir este dispatch con el que espero entretener.
   
Vivo este momento con la misma intensidad que los miembros de la expedicion. Cargo conmigo la responsabilidad de ser el director de la orquesta, y mi corazon late al ritmo de un allegro. Our Cho Oyu Opera esta en la recta final, y tenemos que hacer lo mejor para que todos regresemos y recibamos el aplauso de nosotros mismos.
   
El pronostico del clima es excelente, asi que esperamos hacer cumbre el 23 al mediodia. (3AM hora Argentina). No tendremos contacto hasta llegar al campo base, el 24 a la tarde, hora Nepal.

Por favor, envien buena onda a todos nosotros, alla cerca del cielo, seguro la recibimos sin interferencias. Back to top

ABC life. Photo Gavin.  Yaks near to glacier lake. Photo Ry

19 May -

It seems we are in the final push, or about to commence it.
  
Weather forecast says the night of 23rd the wind will drop, so we must be ready to catch up with the opportunity to climb in good conditions on 24th. Acclimatization is fine among all members and the attitude is excellent. The route is fully fixed so it will be great as we will all walking along the same path, making footholds easier to follow and less energy consuming.
   
It's HOT at ABC; we can't even have a nap in the afternoon, as the sun turn every tent into a Human Oven. I already suffered the effects of this temperature, suffering a massive chocolate melting in one of the pockets of my house.
   
Motivation is quite high; everybody has something to fight for and to work for. Pizza, Blended coffee, Fresh fish, and a hamburger size of a pizza, covered on mozzarella are the main topics to talk about. But between our objectives, and today's reality there is something to be done....CLIMB TO THE TOP.
   
I feel optimistic about our summit push. At least regarding our team and its level of strength, commitment and good mood. Back to top

The Spanish version

Todo parece que vamos camino al empujon final, o casi.
  
El pronostico del clima dice que la noche del 23 el viento calmara un poco su fuerza, asi que deberemos estar listos para aprovechar la oportunidad de escalar en buenas condiciones el 24.
  
La aclimatacion esta muy bien para todos los miembros, y la actitud es excelente. Se ha completado toda la ruta con cuerdas fijas en los puntos claves, lo que hace que las huellas sigan siempre el mismo camino y nos ahorre mucho esfuerzo.
  
Hace un calor de morir en el ABC, no podemos ni tomar un siestita en la tarde, porque el sol transforma cada carpa en un Horno Humano. Ya sufri las consecuencias del devastador sol. Se me derritio una bolsa con chocolates en un bolsillo de la carpa, ahora no tienen ni forma.
  
La motivacion esta muy alta, cada uno encuentra motivos por los que luchar, y por los que trabajar arduamente. Pizza, Cafe de expresso, hamburguesas del tamano de pizzas cubiertas de mozarella, son los topicos principales de que hablar. Pero entre nuestros objetivos, y el dia a dia tenemos algo que hacer. ESCALAR HASTA LA CUMBRE.
  
Me siento muy optimista sobre la cumbre, por lo menos en lo referente al equipo y su nivel de fortaleza, determinacion y buen humor. Back to top

Climbers hiking up to Camp 1. Photo Ry. Dinning tents, Toilet tents and other basecamp tents are in ABC. Photo Wik. 

17 May -

We have been looking towards the summit and we can see a long queue of climbers ascending. It's a spectacular day and I hope it will be repeated.

We are at ABC, having a rest after our last acclimatization rotation. I believe there will be few more days like today, before having the chance of trying to push to the top with a  chances of success.

Days at ABC can be long or quite pleasant depending how you decide to spend them. Today I dedicated the whole morning to learning first-hand how to make Slivovitzka. This is a Slovak spirit made from the distillation of fresh plums harvested right after the first autumn colds.

During our expeditions we meet lots of different people and have enjoyable chats along the way. This is just one of the many reasons why we choose this amazing profession. On the same table you can find a specialist in proton therapy, an economist, an oil specialist and a lawyer. Then further out of the tent there is a worldwide consultant specializing in Lab tech stuff who harvests his own plums, ferments them and distils them to make his own spirits with the same passion he climbs mountains.

Everyone under the same Sun, and everyone having the same idea and objective...To climb until touching the sky with their own hands.

Thank you for following our expedition at www.SummitClimbNews.com 

The Spanish version

Mirando hacia la cumbre, podemos ver la larga cola de montanistas ascendiendo. Es un dia espectacular, que espero se repita.

Estamos en el campo base, descansando luego de nuestra rotacion de aclimatacion. Creo que deberemos dejar pasar varios dias hasta poder intentar con buenas posibilidades de exito la cumbre.

Los dias en el campo base, pueden ser largos o muy amenos segun uno se lo proponga. Hoy dedique toda una manana a aprender de primera mano, como hacer Slivovitzka una bebida eslovaca a partir de ciruelas frescas, cosechadas despues del primer frio de otono.

Estas charlas y el tipo de gente que conocemos en las largas expediciones en himalaya es una de las razones por la que elegi esta profesion. En la misma mesa, podemos tener un especialista en terapia de protones, un

economista, un experto en petroleo, un abogado y un poco mas alla, un consultor especializado en equipos de laboratorio, que cultiva sus propias ciruelas y hace brandies con la misma pasion que escala montanas.
Todos bajo el mismo sol, y todos, con la misma idea...Subir hasta tocar el cielo con las manos. Back to top

16 May -

13 May -

Leaving to C1. Tomorrow C2. Depending upon wind. It's our last rotation before summit push. All fine and waiting at C1.

12 May -

The morning wasn't as good as we had hoped. The wind is still a main character in this performance and by 6AM I had a call from the Sherpa team saying it was quite shaky up there. They asked for advice- what to do? but I left them to make the decision as they were the ones who were exposed on the mountain. Fortunately the wind speed dropped hours later, so now we can say : Camp 2 is established!!!!!.

By 5pm the boys called to confirm they had made camp 2, set a tent, dropped all the gear and returned to C1. They are all fine now and tomorrow we will met them at C1 to spend a night. The next day, weather permitting we will spend a night at C2, as our final aclimatization rotation.

As we discussed our plans, we headed towards the end of the valley for a walk, following the East Glacier valley. We went to the very bottom of the blue iced terrain. It was a great walk, and we took good pictures of it. Dimitry carried his big camera and made us feel like models, directing us and telling us how to pose etc. A true artist we all say.

Everybody is asleep now and in a while the bell will ring to call everyone for dinner.
We leave tomorrow to C1, it is confirmed. Please send us energy, the wind is blowing East, so it will take a whole turn on the globe, but believe me, good feelings always reach our camps.

Thank you for following our expedition at www.SummitClimbNews.com

The Spanish version  

La manana no fue tan buena como quisieramos. El viento, es todavia un protagonista principal en esta obra, y para las 6AM recibi una llamada del equipo de sherpas en C1 diciendo que estaba sacudiendose todo alla en las alturas. Como esperando una orden, preguntaron que hacer, a lo que respondi que decidieran ellos. Al fin y al cabo eran los que se expondrian.

Afortunadamente el viento calmo un poco algunas horas mas tarde, y en este momento, podemos decir: Campo2 establecido!!!

A las 5 de la tarde los chicos llamaron confirmando que habian instalado una carpa, dejaron todas las cargas, y retornaron al C1. Estan todos bien ahora, y manana nos reuniremos en C1 para pasar la noche, y al dia siguiente si el clima lo permite ir al C2 como final de nuestra rotacion de aclimatacion.

A lo que cambiamos planes, nos fuimos a dar un paseo hasta el Glaciar Este, llegando hasta la azulada base del inmenso bloque helado. Fue un hermoso paseo, e hicimos muchas fotografias. Dimitry llevo su super camara, y nos hizo sentir como modelos de revistas, corrigiendonos en la posicion direccion pose y encuadre...Un artista verdadero..

Estan todos durmiendo ahora, y en un rato ya escucharemos la campana llamandonos para cenar.

Nos vamos al C1 manana, esta confirmado. Manden buena vibra, el viento esta soplando Este, asi que habra que esperar que de una vuelta al globo, pero no se preocupen, que los buenos sentimientos, siempre llegan a nuestros campamentos

11 May -

It's been three days since we returned from the high lands and we are all eager to climb again. Wind held us at ABC for an extra night. It wasn't bad, but strong enough to ruin a good rest at high camps which we need in order to complete the second rotation.

Our Sherpas left for C1 this morning and tomorrow the aim is to establish C2. There are good puffy clouds they indicate the weather will stay good for a few days, so we want to take the opportunity to do as much as we can.
The summit push is closer and closer and we have a good team. Please send us as much energy as you can, we have a positive felling trap right at the entrance of the camp, and we squeeze it into the tea every morning. Back to top

9 May -

It's been few days since our last dispatch. The weather has made dispatches quite difficult to be delivered because although every morning is great but thenwe get a lot of snow late afternoon.
  
Three days ago we made our first trek with the members to the bottom of the screen.  The Sherpas and myself climbed to C1 to officially establish the camp and drop a huge load carry. Acclimatization is going well for everyone, slow sometimes but everyone as a good appetite and it reflects a good mood.

Thursday found ourselves doing a lot here. It was a great day we all enjoyed having a great climbing training day and establishing the systems. Everyone did well and I am really pleased with everyone’s progress

On Wednesday we slept in C1, next day all team members and I made an attempt to climb over the Glacier Serac between C1 and C2, it was quite cold and wind raised before we completed the programme. We returned to C1 had a nap, lunch and by 5pm we reached basecamp to rest for a couple of days.

Today's afternoon programme was Snow white and the Huntsmen, great movie maybe the best ever seen at Cho Oyu Basecamp awaiting for the wind to drop in a spring season. We have schedule Pretty Women, Wolverine and some other state of the art cinema productions. If you have any suggestions and would like to send us a DVD please deliver it to "Cho Oyu Basecamp - At the highest point on the screen, just before the big puja tower with the big flags". Attach a Jumbo Pizza in the same deliver if possible...!

 I should mention that the fixed lines are about to be completed between today and tomorrow. There is a team who arrived early in the season and they are mostly doing that task, collecting every other team’s collaboration.
 
Days are warmer as we approach the end of the season, so, from being using sleeping bags and extra layer, we are all just enjoying the warmer temperatures of May.

Jan Virt Climbing to C1. Above C1.  Photo Angel.

The Spanish version 

Han pasado varios dias desde el ultimo dispatch. EL clima hace dificil establecer una coneccion, ya que cada manana amanece soleado pero por la tarde nieva un monton.

El Lunes hicimos nuestro primer trek de aproximacion hasta la base del acarreo que lleva hasta campo 1 con los clientes, y el equipo de sherpas y yo seguimos hasta C1 para establecer el campamento y dejar cargas. EL proceso de aclimatacion va bien para todos, aunque algunos demoran un poco mas. Todos tenemos buen apetito, y eso es un buen signo, y el animo es excelente.

Estuvimos muy ocupados aqui, el martes hicimos unas practicas escalada, rapel y ascenso, para estandarizar todos los modelos que traemos de siete paises diferentes. Todos aprovaron el examen, y espero que se vea reflejado en un buen y fluido ascenso y regreso.

De todos estos dias, el mas movido fue el miercoles. Fue algo largo, pero todos salimos rumbo al C1 (6400m) para dormir, y el dia siguiente, ascender con el objetivo de superar la barrera de seracs cercano a los 6700m. No lo logramos por el frio y el viento que alcanzo, justo encima de nuestras cabezas la friolera de 90km/h. Regresamos todos al C1 para dormir una siesta, almorzar y volver a dormir a casa, donde Dorje nos espero con unos zanguches, que aunque no fueron de milanesa me hicieron suspirar. Los sherpas salieron al mismo tiempo que nosotros, y debieron regresar si npoder establecer el C2, dejando las cargas apenas cien metros encima nuestro.
Estaba imposible.

Ya estamos jugando en la altura asi que llevamos Oxigeno por seguridad, que dejamos en cada campamento.

Las cuerdas fijas estan casi completas, por un equipo que esta desde hace mas de tres semanas en el cerro, trabajando arduamente, entre manana y pasado estara asegurado el filo cumbrero. Todos colaboramos pero los que se cargaron el laburo fueron ellos, asi que debemos agradecerles.

Los dias son cada vez mas calidos, y disfrutamos de un despertar soleado y las bolsas de dormir casi algo abiertas. Mayo nos regala unas temperaturas que son mas que bienvenidas.

Hoy abrimos el cine, y nos deleitamos con posiblemente la mejor pelicula que se haya visto en el Cho Oyu durante el Premonzon, mientras se espera que baje el viento. Blancanieves y el Cazador ( Snowhite and the Huntsmen), ya hemos puesto en cartelera Mujer Bonita, Wolverine y varias otras joyas del cine. Creo que volveremos cienfilos luego de este largo temporal que tenemos por delante...Back to top

Climbing Training.  Photo Angel.

8 May -

BACK TO BC AFTER ONE NIGHT AT C1. ALL TIRED BUT HAPPY AS EVER BIG DINNER TONIGHT & DEEP SLEEP.

6 May -

TODAY WE DID CLIMBING TRAINING. IT WAS GOOD FUN & IMPORTANT TOMORROW ARE GOING TO SLEEP IN C1.  DAY AFTER CLIMB TO 6700 METRES & BACK TO BC.  ALL FINE.  FOOD IS GOOD.  NO LOOS WEIGH FIX LINE UP TO C3 NEXT DAY TO SUMMIT.

5 May - 

MEMBERS MADE ONE TRIP TO BOTTOM OF C1. SHERPA & ME AT C1. ONE TENT UP IN C1. OFFICIALLY SET LOTS OF STUFF IN TENT. EVERYONE ARE HAPPY AND TIRED. Back to top

3 May -

It's been the first perfect shiny day at ABC. We are all fine, and relax in our well set basecamp. Food is great and it helps in the way that encourages everyone to eat as much as we can.

Tomorrow we will perform a Puja. It's an essential part of all the trips in the Himalaya. Dorje, our cook will perform the ceremony, following all the mantras in his well kept sacred book. Tomorrow it will be a day of celebrations. It will be the day when we all be blessed in order to climb the Turquoise Goddess.

The route is well set up to C2, and today I was discussing with other leaders how we could contribute to this difficult and hard task. We are welcomed in other camps and between everyone of us, we will make this route a safe passage for everyone.
  
There is a book of mine awaiting to be read. Most of members have already accomplish this duty, I can see them relax and chilling out under the sun.
  
From ABC I hope you're having a great time as we do here. Sincerely, Angel.Back to top

 

At ABC from left to right Kenneth hutt, Anders Bergvall, Pascal Tiercelin, Sacha Guittet, Dimitri Nichiporov, Jan Virt, Paul Hudson.  Yaks on the way to ABC. Photo Angel.

2 May -

ABC FULL OPERATIVE. NO SHOWER TOO COLD. EVERYONE OK. GOOD APPETITE & MOOD SNOW ALL DAY GOOD REST & MUSIC 

1 May -

WE ARE AT ABC. ALL OK .SNOWS LITTLE  TONIGHT. DVD GOOD, FOOD  & HIBERNATION LIKE A BEAR TOMORROW REST & SHOWERS.

30 April -

Today was a quiet day in Chinese BC.

The Yaks are working hard as we are carrying so much delicious food (in fact we are carrying 800kg in excess luggage!) We managed to get everything transported to basecamp in time though which is good. We are all quite really busy today. Everyone is fine but tired to the point we are all dreaming to have a hot shower at ABC. We all feel the altitude as we were moving heavy rocks. Every time we try to run a bit, we feel there is something we are missing. - It's the air in the lungs!!! Back to top

More pictures to follow.... Thank you for following our news. www.SummitClimbNews.com

29 April Eve -

Between packing and unpacking we are mountain guides. This is what my friend Jon Muir told me once, while we were setting up a trip together.

Every container has been emptied to check all the food available, it means A LOT. Tomorrow, part of it will be loaded in a truck to go to the intermediate Base Camp, named Diablum ( I believe it's well spelled). - It's spring and facilities are not available, so most of the sherpas and Dorje will take the ride on the big DongFeng and set the tents and kitchen for us.

Few Yaks are already here, I love to see them in the distance walking in their particular tired-looking manner walk.

It's time to go for a trek, to stretch out the legs, later on, there will be pictures posted to make you understand how beautiful this place is.

Packing at Basecamp.

29 April -

The road is in perfect conditions, so we complete the drive I remember it was a two fine hours in just about more than one.

Weather is great, and every morning we have a snow shower that covers all the camp with one centimeter of snow. It's good to have some moisture in the air as it helps in the acclimatization process. Besides landscape changes from morning to afternoon!

Last night we had our first chicken curry, vegetable Dahl Bhat. Dorje made a great meal, and by now we are already in a Nepali diet I prefer.

Everyone is fine, lazy acclimatize days allow everyone to read, write, dream about future trips and design high pressure air regulators.

It's great to see members are doing things they can not dedicate time while in their normal life. I can see in their faces, the relax of being in full mountaineering mode.

We are at Oz Land, the yellow brick road is just ahead. Big hugs from here, everyone here having a great time!!!!

Breakfast Time.  Dorje, Pemba at Cho Oyu BC. Photo Angel Ezequiel Armesto

Truck in Tingri.  Road to Cho Oyu BC. Photo Angel Ezequiel Armesto

27 April -

We spent part of the morning climbing a promontory close to town in order to improve the acclimatization process. It was a nice walk and everyone enjoyed it. We could take great pictures of Cho Oyu and Everest. 

The farming lands are ploughed at the moment and show no evidence of sprouting plants. We will need to return in autumn to enjoy the green fields in contrast to the ever frozen high lands.

Tomorrow we head to Chinese Basecamp. Some of the staff have already gone to establish our camp so that it will be ready by the time we get there. Life is great and the Himalayas makes it better. Back to top

Thank you for following our expedition at www.SummitClimbNews.com  

Team in Tingri at 4,300 meters/14,100 feet.

 

Member enjoying in Tringri. Payer flag in Tringri.

25 April -

Crowded  Kathmandu is now far behind us. Yesterday we could experience the transition between the valley and the high lands where the farmers are growing barley and Rye which they will harvest after the monsoon.

It's a fantastic feeling to see the terraces, and houses built on the slopes and the green and greener areas before Kodari.

We crossed the border at noon, entering in the territory of Tibet. The Friendship Bridge separate two different worlds. We are in the other side now, and we can see the great improvement in the buildings and roads.

The group is great, we are all having a great time and enjoying the clear air of the high lands. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will drive to Thingri to spend another two nights in order to let the body acclimatize.
 
I will let you judge the trip by seeing one picture taken twenty minutes away from the hotel where we are staying.

You could be here also, so why not to join us next season?

Thank you for following our expedition at www.SummitClimbNews.com

Bye for now Angel Ezequiel Armesto (Expedition leader)

Team member. Photo Angle. Team members in Tibet gate.

Cho Oyu Spring 2014 Team Roster:

• Angel A., Argentina
• David S., UK
• Andreas T. A., Netherlands
• Dmitri N., Russia
• Kenneth H., Australia
• Paul H., Australia
• Jan V., Czech Republic
• Pascal T., France
• Anders B., Sweden
• Sacha G., France