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Photo by David O'Brien

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Photo by David O'Brien

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28 May - At the balcony we changed oxygen cylinder's carried by our Sherpas  ensuring sufficient supply for the next section. At around half way it's a good rest and resupply spot. From the balcony it's along a steep ridge that leads to the summit . Mixed terrain this year with the addition of much snow. The snow if firmly packed takes some of the difficulty put of the rock sections , but if loose as it was adds a degree of energy sapping difficulty. The climb rises steeply to the South Summit in altitude nearly as high as the main summit but still some distance to go. Here thankfully the wind dropped a welcome respite that continued for our remaining climb. First there's a descent, some scrambly rock and technical sections, the Hillary step and at last a more gentle snow slope that leads to the prayer flag strewn summit . An Amazing summit experience, no wind and only our team up there  enjoying the surreal sights of looking down knowing everything is below.

 

With no wind some of us stayed up there for an hour, photos, handshakes, and broad smiles. A privilege to be able to spend that long up there which  on most years an extremely inhospitality place.

 

The descent is often where more focus is needed. With energy running low and the summit euphoria slowly evaporating a real concentration is needed when placing each foot . As is usual I'll be at the rear of our group helping any of our members that might have slowed. Myself one of the members and two Sherpas were indeed  moving somewhat slowly back along the ridge. The winds stayed low and I knew we had ample time to get back to the south camp but probably not onto camp 2 which was our real aim.

 

When we got there the south col seemed welcoming and considerably lower than the summit that loomed  above . We settled in for the night in the knowledge that all the other members were descending to the safety of camp 2. With some limited food and drink on board it was time to try to get some sleep. Early evening the winds started to pick up , this was more normal than the calm we had experienced the day before . At midnight I called HQ to see if my latest forecast had somehow dramatically changed . It hadn't , the storm force winds that threatened to shred the tents wasn't forecast and was just part of the wind systems that often effects the South Col, possibly due to a pressure differential on either side. It was a long night lying awake hoping for the winds to subside , they didn't , the tents survived and the morning brought the welcome thought of descending to the safety of camp 2. Packing up was done in at a slow low motion lethargic pace inside the tent , outside the winds continued until we abseiled off the Geneva Spur down to an area sheltered from the relentless winds. After some hours we were back at Camp 2, food not from a packet and a flatish bed to hopefully get some rest. All was good , all the team was safe and the next day we'd be back at base camp.

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Lakpa Dawa at Lhotse C4

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27 May - Hi this is David , with an expansion of our summit day. Preparation was to get as much rest as possible on the south col in our shared 2 person tents. The south col unusually for a high camp is a large flat area, fine for tents particularly when the wind  isn't blowing. On our pre summit day the winds blessed us with a stillness and the unusual sight of Kyle in a only a long sleeved top with oxygen cylinder in tow chatting to a few of the other members . Dehydrated food and plenty of water provided by the Sherpas added to the sense of recovery - - - the aim of our time up there . As the afternoon progressed the clouds accumulated and way to snow. By the time we were ready to leave it was a full on snow storm.  Horizontal driving snow makes for difficulty in doing up crampons without freezing hands. The first half of the climb is up a steep snow slope now covered in fresh snow. One step up half a step sliding back, progress was steady but  slow. You also have to be careful not to overheat , if you sweat it can later freeze with possible cold injury consequences. It's 4 or 5 hours pretty much straight up to the summit  ridge and a flatish rest area called the balcony . The wind gained strength pushing the cold deep into  fingers and toes

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24 May - Hi this is David from the south col, all members are now back here or at lower camps after an amazing no wind summit of Everest in the early morning. Also our Lhotse team summited this morning at 10am. Well Done! 

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24 May - Summit the Majestic Mount Lhotse ! Time of Triumph: 10:11 AM 

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24 May - Breaking News from Everest SummitClimb’s 1st and 2nd team are now on the top of Everest. CONGRATULATIONS!

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23 May - Expedition Update: Everest Summit Push Imminent! 

Greetings from Everest Camp 4, where our courageous team is making final preparations for the epic summit push tonight! 

The Countdown: The summit push is just hours away! Our climbers are utilizing this time at Camp 4 to rest, regain strength, and mentally prepare for the ultimate challenge that lies ahead.

Support and Well Wishes: As we embark on this extraordinary journey, we extend our gratitude to all our supporters, sponsors, and well-wishers. Your encouragement and positive energy have been invaluable throughout this expedition.

Stay tuned for more updates as we embark on this climb.  Together, we will do our best to work together and try to ascend the world's highest peak!

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20 May – Here is what Ben said - Hi, today we heard on the radio of a Porter in a crevasse slightly above camp 1 at lunch time. Me, David, Dr Abhyu, James, and Ang Dorji responded. I was first on scene and the Porter was out of sight but could whistle. More than 60 meters deep in the black. SST Porter. Over 3 hours, with SST, we made a Successful rescue and the Porter lived. We are very proud! SummitClimb was an exceptional presence and made this rescue possible. The Porter had no harness and was fully wedged. 2 SST sherpa went in crevasse and I took lead from the lip. Porter came out uninjured and cold. Dr provided immediate patient care and he will be more than okay. No long term injuries. Amazing outcome.

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Vdieo Credit - SummitClimb.com

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20 May - We all went directly to camp 2 yerterday our last ascent of the ice fall. Were all felling well, resting today.

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18 May - Tonight we were up at 12.30 am gear ready , porridge and omelet for early breakfast. The expectation was for us to climb the ice fall for our summit push. However just as we were leaving our base camp another teams headlights appeared returning back to their base camp. The word was that the route up the ice fall was blocked . A few of us saw an avalanche high up the ice fall late yesterday afternoon, this clearly has caused damage to the route. Our lead sherpa has just come back from a visit to the ice fall doctors . They have confirmed damage and will attempt to fix it tomorrow morning.

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13 May - Hi this is David , all the team is now on their way back to base camp to arrive either today or tomorrow. We’re looking forward to moving on with the summit phase of the expedition

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10 May - Hi this is David from Namche Bazaar where we are continuing our recovery and strengthening process before our summit push. We’re continuing to eat well and enjoy the oxygen rich air to optimise our performance for when we get back to base camp which is expected on Friday . It looks like the ropes to the summit should be fixed around the 13th or 14th now after the current winds subside. Our Sherpas were at camp 2 last night and have reported tent destruction at some of the camps due to high winds . Our tents were reset by our Sherpas and fortunately we don’t appear to have taken any damage . The wind at camp 2 last night was estimated at around 100km/ hr. The current forecast for winds at the summit includes speeds of 150km/ hr . It is both a windy and snowy year this year.

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7 May - Hi this is David from a sunny Namche Bazaar. We continue the recuperation process , which mainly involves eating a lot, a lot of the time. Dinner is in the delightful Eat Smart restaurant with excellent food and excellent hygiene , some of the team have ventured safely onto the freshly prepared salads , health giving and tasty. There are lovely day walks off the main trail with very few trekkers, these will keep us occupied between eating.

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6 May - Hi this is David, we all arrived at Namche yesterday , some walking the 35 hilly kilometres in a day , some taking the more direct helicopter ride. We’re resting up in the Kumbu Lodge the one of the oldest lodges in Namche and full of character. We’ll be here for around five days , possibly more as we wait for the ropes to be fixed to the summit.  Currently it’s expected that the ropes will be fixed by 12th May, we’ll then finalise our plan to return to base camp and onwards to the summit.

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Summit Climb base camp with the ice fall behind. Photo Credit - David O'Brien

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Tenji our head Sherpa. Our very snowy camp 2

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Heading up to camp 2. Photo Credit - David O'Brien

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5 May - It’s a beautiful night in basecamp under a full moon. Our members completed a lengthy rotation in the Western CWM with many nights at Camp 2 and a climb to the Lhotse Face. Team members will now rest in Namche before returning to basecamp for summit push. Our sherpa team is continuing their efforts of load carrying to prepare the mountain for members to attempt the summit. Ben, Lhotse Leader.

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5 May - Hi this is David . After the long hike to and climb down the ice fall we were greeted  as long lost friends by the staff back at base camp . A wonderful meal of yak steak and chips was a welcome end to a strenuous day. Base camp seams a relatively luxurious place  with our big wide mattresses , internet access and endless tasty food.

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Photo David

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03 May - We have completed our acclimatization schedule and will be heading to base camp tomorrow

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Camp 2. Photo: Gary

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02 May - Yesterday, we walked up towards the Lhotse face despite very strong, swirling winds and driving snow. There was heavy snowfall again today, but we hope that tomorrow will be clearer for our acclimatization and touch of Camp 3.

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Video : Gary

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30 April - We are resting in camp two. Sunny weather this morning turned to snow this afternoon

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28 April - After the long gruelling night climb up the ice fall yesterday, we arrived at camp one in bright sunshine.We're resting  up here today with the beautiful views for company.

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Photo: Gary

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26 April - Hi this is David from base camp. Everyone is good and looking forward to moving higher in the early hours of tomorrow morning. We'll be up at midnight for an early breakfast and then on to climb the ice fall to camp 1. The snow has stopped and it it looks like a cold clear night for us , ideal conditions.

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Happy birthday Ryan. Photo David

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Expedition Dispatch April 22 - Hi this is David from base camp . The snow stayed on the ground today so rather than risk a twisted ankle on a rocky path we stayed in base camp to enjoy good food and a cinema set up in one of our communal tents.

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Expedition Dispatch April 19 - Beautiful weather again today at base camp . We made good use of it for some practice on ropes and ladders on the ice pinnacles just below our camp.

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Expedition Dispatch April 18 - Hi this is David from base camp. The Puja ceremony yesterday blessed our kit , our expedition and ourselves. It’s a spiritual experience followed by an after party with a splash of alcohol for those inclined. Today we’ve been checking gear making sure everything is in order.

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Expedition Dispatch April 16 - Hi this is David . We all arrived at base camp yesterday and got our individual tents set up . It’ll take a little while for the internet technology to get linked to our camp. Today the Lama will come to see us for our Puja ceremony and we hope to get photos uploaded when the internet is set. Everyone is doing well and enjoying the sunshine.

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Expedition Dispatch April 15 - Another fine walk up to Loboche today, looked like it might snow earlier on but stayed fine for us. There’s a lot of people on the trek this year. The small tourist town of Loboche is packed to the rafters but the guest house we always use kept the best rooms for us. We’re all looking forward to the last days walk to base camp tomorrow.

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Expedition Dispatch April 14 - Hi this is David , all the team are doing well. We’re currently in a 2 day acclimatisation stop in Dinboche. We headed for a walk up a local hill hill to 5000m this morning and then back to the lodge for lunch if pizza, burger  and yak steaks .

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Expedition Dispatch April 13 - Lovely walk up to Pangboche today past this fella giving me the stare

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Expedition Dispatch April 12 - We’ve had a lovely few days in Namche. This morning it’s back on the trail heading up the valley , looking forward  more spectacular views.

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Expedition Dispatch April 11 - We’ve been acclimatising in Namche Bazaar, the main town in the khumbu Valley. There are plenty of shops , restaurants and places to hang out . This morning we hiked up to the Everest View hotel for some altitude gain, wonderful views and drinks on the terrace , spectacular.

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Expedition Dispatch April 8 - We took the scenic flight up to Lukla airport this morning. It has a very short runway but the landing was smooth . It was then a relatively short walk onto the Sonam lodge in Zomphute following up the river course.

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Expedition Dispatch April 8 - Lovely mountain backed swimming pool dip to start the morning

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Expedition Dispatch April 7 - SummitClimb left Kathmandu after a group lunch in Thamel. We loaded up all members and equipment in vans and headed East for Manthali (540m elevation). Tomorrow we will fly to Lukla and begin our trek.

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Winding along the Sunkoshi & Tama Koshi Rivers, our drive is a scenic one to start our respective expeditions.

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We have Team members & Sherpa going to:

• Everest 8848m
• Lhotse 8516m
• Ama Dablam 6812m
• Lobuche East 6119m
• Everest Basecamp Trek 5364m

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Here is some of our team halfway to Manthali!

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Kathmandu Sightseeing. Photo Samantha.

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27 March - Everest SummitClimb Sherpa Teams left Kathmandu this morning with all the expedition goods.

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26 March - Sherpa and team are ready to go Lukla with expedition goods.

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24 March - Super qualified friendly helpful Sherpas with more than 10 ascents are working for our upcoming Everest Expedition 2022. We are leaving for Lukla on 9 April 2022

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Everest Nepal

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