Now offering expeditions to Africa and Aconcagua
We welcome you to visit our new Leadership. There is more thorough information about the programme, slideshows, and much more. Thank you.
Please check it out and then tell us what you think at firstname.lastname@example.org
Our leadership includes, but is not limited to Arnold Coster, Ms. Elselien te Hennepe, Jay Reilly, Felix Berg, Daniel Mazur, Jon Otto, Ryan Waters, Jeffrey Justman, Murari Sharma, Durge Tamang, Ms. Maya Sherpa, Jangbu Sherpa, Ms. Kandu Sherpa, Gyalu Sherpa, Ms Nima Dolma Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa, Shera Sherpa, Kipa Sherpa, Sangay Sherpa, and others.
All of our current expedition leaders began their career in our leader-in-training programme. Are you interested in becoming a leader? If so, then would you please visit our new Leaders-In-Training Website
Daniel Mazur, in Everest basecamp (J.C. Pratt) .Greg Mills, Murari Sharma, Dan Mazur, and Troy Chatwin at Everest basecamp in April 2004 (Murari Sharma). Dan conducting a pre-trip training seminar on the roof of our Hotel in Kathmandu (Franck Pitula).
Dan is a
44-year old Himalayan
explorer, building designer, and climbing and trekking equipment tester, having lived in
England, Asia, and North America. Dan spends more and more of his
time lecturing and raising funds for the Mount Everest Foundation, building
hospitals, schools, and environmental projects with the low-income
families who live around Mt. Everest. If you would like to learn
more about upcoming lecture tours, please "click" on the
button. Climbing Magazine named Dan the "most successful American
to ever launch an expedition". As an articulate but humble Himalayan explorer and scholar, Daniel has been
active in climbing the highest peaks of the Himalaya for many years. His
personal link with the region and its peoples began in 1986 when he
traveled and trekked throughout Tibet and Nepal with friends, then in
together with Anatoli Boukreev and friends to ascend Mount Everest followed by 7 of the
world's highest 8000 metre peaks, including
Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, and Gasherbrum 1. He has been leading and
organizing successful and safe overland, trekking, and mountaineering expeditions for
18 years, to Tibet, Nepal, Tadjikistan, Pakistan, India, China, Africa,
and North America.
Dan's written, photographic, and cinematic works are featured in London Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal, Ito-Yuki Journal of the Japanese Alpine Club, Himalayan Journal, High Magazine, Climbing Magazine, Climber Magazine, the London Independent Newspaper, the London Guardian, On the Edge Magazine, Outside Magazine, Rock and Ice Magazine, Vertical Magazine, NBC Television, The Discovery Channel, EverestNews Website, Quokka Sports Website, and the Mountainzone Website. Dan is a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, a member of the Alpine Club, and The Mountaineers. To read more about the exploits of Dan and friends, please visit our "News" and "Archive" pages.
Dan learned to climb in the Himalaya on a commercially organized expedition, where they attempted to climb the 3 highest mountains in the then Soviet Pamirs, and did succeed in climbing one peak: 7105 metre high Korjenevskaya.
Arnold, our Cho Oyu leader at Camp 3, 7500 metres (Roland DeBare).
Arnold Coster has led four 8000 metre expeditions for SummitClimb. He led two successful Everest expeditions, in 2004 and 2005, as well as two successful Cho Oyu expeditions, also in 2004 and 2005. Arnold is an accomplished leader, well organised, very friendly, strong and polite. Friends tell us they enjoy climbing on Summit Climb expeditions led by Arnold Coster. He is a very fluent English, Dutch, and German speaker; a 31 year old marine surveyor from Rotterdam. He is a good communicator, a great motivator, and has a positive attitude. Arnold is at home in any terrain, with any kind of group. He is an expert technical rock and ice climber. Most recently, he led a group of 10 members and 5 sherpas to the summit of Cho Oyu in September 2005. Arnold Coster's first Himalayan climb was on SummitClimb's 8156 metre-high Manaslu expedition in 2003. Arnold is sponsored by Eider clothing. Please check out their site and be sure to return when you are finished. Thank you.
Elselien te Hennepe
Elselien in Everest basecamp, April 2005. Thats the Khumbu icefall in the background, which you can easily walk to the base of (William Pollock Photo).
Elselien is an excellent trekking leader, as she has led treks all over Nepal and Tibet. Also, she has climbed to the summits of Island Peak and Ama Dablam. Elselien is from Rotterdam. Her first Himalayan expedition was SummitClimb's 6584 Chulu East trek, followed by 7045 metre Lhakpa-Ri in Tibet. Ama Dablam, Pumori, and Island Peak. She has led five treks to Everest and remote villages. Elselien is sponsored by Icebreaker. Please check out their site and return when you are finished. Thanks.
Ryan Waters, one of our leaders, at camp 1 on the North Col of Everest at 7000 metres. Ryan has led two of our teams to the summit of Aconcagua, Everest, Cho-Oyu, and one to the summit of Pumori (Thomas Haines took this photo and reached the summit together with Ryan in 2004).
Ryan is a fluent English and Spanish speaker, Aconcagua, Everest, Cho Oyu and Pumori leader. He is a relaxed, considerate and thoughtful climbing instructor for the world famous "Outward-Bound" school, and a highly-skilled professional who specializes in getting people to the summit and back down safely. Recently Ryan has been working in the summer guiding people to the glaciated 4500 metre summit of Mt. Rainier. Ryan's first visit to the Himalaya was as leader-in-training on Summit Climb's Pumori expedition, followed by Cho Oyu and 2 Everest Expeditions. Ryan lives for part of the year in Argentina, Asia, Georgia. Ryan is a certified Wilderness First Responder, has completed the Avalanche Course Level II, and has a B.Sc. in Geology.
Ryan is sponsored by Power Bar. Please visit their site and return here when you are done:
Phil on the hill. The photo was taken in 2001 on Denali's West Buttress route by Douglas Johnson from Comedy Central. Here is Phil's commentary about the photo: "It was taken just before we passed thru Windy Corner, heading up to Genet Basin (the '14,000 foot camp'). The weather was OK here but turned to crap at ABC, although it was early April and there were only the two of us and three climbers from Seattle on the whole route which made the climb special." During the climb Phil and Doug raised $20,000 for Cancer Research.
Phil Crampton, at age 35 has led and organized 4 expeditions to Cho Oyu and Everest. He is originally from Nottinghamshire, lived in New York where he and his wife Trish owned a popular bar in Chelsea, and now calls Houston home. Recently Phil was co leader with Arnold Coster of our successful 2005 Cho Oyu expedition where 10 members and 4 sherpas reached the summit. You will enjoy his friendly British wit and attention to detail. Perhaps at Trish's coaxing, Phil has become something of a gourmet cook and loves to teach our Tibetan staff how to cook amazing dishes. In fact, together with Jon Otto, Phil and Trish have been intimately involved with the Tibetan Guide School where our Tibetan sherpas, climbers, cooks, and staff are educated and headquartered. For further information, please visit their site, and please return when you are done. Thanks.
Jon Christian Otto, climbing on the North Wall of Gasherbrum 2, in the Chinese Karakoram Range. (Photo: D.L. Mazur)
Jon has been working for SummitClimb since
1995 and is a very friendly and well organised 34 year old
expedition organizer and leader, technical climber, author, and travel consultant, with
5 successful ascents of 7546 metre
Mustagata, possibly the worlds easiest 7500
metre peak. by the normal route as well as new routes. Jon is from
Chengdu, China and New York, and is a gifted rock, ice, and snow climber,
and anyone would be honoured to tie into a rope with him. He will be leading our climbs
of Mustagata and organizes all of our Tibet climbs and treks. Jon has organized more than 25 Himalayan expeditions in
Xinjiang, East Turkistan, and Szechuan. Jon spends most of his time in
China, speaks very fluent Mandarin, and manages SummitClimb's China and
Tibet offices. Jon was a student at the esteemed Beijing University and is married to Xue Hua,
a Stanford environmental engineering PhD student of Chinese government and
environmental policy consultant from Chengdu, China. Jon has led a new route to the
summit of Mustagata and has traveled
the length and breadth of China, Tibet, Xinjiang, East Turkistan, and knows Kathmandu
well. Jon knows just about everyone at all of the mountain climbing,
trekking and travel ministries in China and Tibet. He also knows many
embassy staff in Chinese embassies around the world. He worked together with
Betsy Damon to build the Living Water Garden, a community based
environmental education project, in Chengdu, China. He wrote a guide
book to rock climbing in Beijing. He has built climbing gyms in China
and Lhasa for Nicros
Inc. He worked on a project with Global Educational Medical
Solutions to build a new hospital in Lhasa,
Tibet. His organizational skills are superb, and he has extensive contacts
Jon has been developing leaders in Tibet and China since the early 1990's, when he was a student in Beijing. Jon began organising his first SummitClimb trips in 1995, with a trek and climb to the Chinese side of K2 and Gasherbrum 2. Recently, he has been training Western Leaders from Europe, the Antipodes, and North and South America, in addition to in-depth teaching of Tibetan and Chinese guides, chefs, and support workers in the vagaries of dealing with Westerners.
Jon has organized sponsorship for our expeditions from Ozark. They produce most of the famous high-altitude tents in the world, including North Face and Mountain Hardwear under contract in China. We use their own tents, branded "Ozark" and think you will agree with our climbing team members that Ozark tents are among the world's best. Jon works with a group of Chinese climbers in the AAIC-China Climbing School.
I hope you can enjoy these links to Jon's work, especially if you can read Chinese. If you can't, at least you can see how perfect Jon's must be and some cool pictures of the climbing in China and Tibet. Please be sure to return here when you are done. Thanks.
Jay Reilly, co-leader (left), and Galu Sherpa, one of our top sherpas (right). Taken in Ama Dablam basecamp during our succesful ascent, when 15 members and 5 sherpas reached the summit. Roland DeBare Photo
You will enjoy meeting Jay, and learning from his wide-ranging experience and friendly kindness and "Aussie" sense of humour. Jay Reilly is sponsored by MONT equipment. Please check them out:
Dave's photo was taken
climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park. He is a program director for
photo taken by Chris
Dave Elmore grew up exploring wild places and has climbed Aconcagua twice. He works for Outward Bound, specializing in technical and risk management training, and works as Patagonia Program Director. Dave has been a climber for 14 years, telemark skier, avid boater, reader and photographer. Dave has explored, worked and climbed in such places as India, Nepal, Europe, SE Asia, Central America, Chile, and Argentina. Dave is a member of the AMGA and has recently completed the Alpine Guides Course. Dave holds a Wilderness Medical Training certificate, and has a B.Sc. in Environmental Sciences and Psychology.
Felix in the Forests of Mount Kenya, where he is currently a mathematics student.
Felix, a proficient 26 year old technical climber and mathematics student who lives in Freiburg, Germany, and Nairobi, Kenya with his wife, who is a Kenyan, is one of our Africa expedition organizers and leaders. Felix has climbed and trekked Mount Kenya and Mount Kilimanjaro numerous times, and was the co-leader of our 2002 Kangchenjunga expedition and Everest-Tibet 2004. He is a very well organised person, and a strong climber, with good ideas, always eager to help others. He has made solo winter ascents of major North Face Routes in the Alps. Felix met SummitClimb, when he made an impressive no-rope ascent and descent of Ama Dablam with a German-Japanese expedition in 2001, then became a leader in training on Kangchenjunga and improved his leadership skills on Everest-Tibet 2004. Felix has his own website you might enjoy visiting: BergBote.de . Please be sure to return here when you are done. Thanks.
Jeff, at age 32, was the leader of our 2003 Manaslu expedition, when we received more than 10 metres of snow. He has extensive professional guiding experience and has climbed to within 200 metres of the summit of Dhaulagiri. He knows what it takes to accomplish a succesful Himalayan expedition.
A former collegiate Nordic ski racer, Jeff Justman gave up his competitive side to pursue a life of adventure. He has climbed and guided extensively in North and South America. As a Senior Guide for Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., he has over 70 ascents of Mount Rainier. He is a true professional, and places an emphasis on safety and fun.
2002 Expedition Dhaulagiri (26,794') 70+ Ascents of Mount Rainier
2 Expeditions to Mt. McKinley (20,320')
4 Expeditions to Aconcogua (23,000')
1 Expedition to Ecuador, Cotapaxi and Chimborazo
1 Expedition to Bolivia, Huayna Potosi and Illiamani
3 Winter Ascents of Mt. Whitney, CA
Numerous Ascents of Selected North Cascade Peaks
Mountain Hardwear Sponsored Athlete
Our busy agency office in Kathmandu. The staff, working together as "Everest Parivar Expeditions, Pvt. Ltd." led by the experienced and influential Mr. Murari Sharma, are hospitality experts and have, for the last 21 years, been arranging overland tours, safaris, raft trips, treks, mountain climbs, trek support staff, cooks, peak climbing permits, satellite phone permits, video and film-making permits, translators, liason officers, climbing Sherpas, oxygen, helicopter flights, air tickets, equipment purchase/hire, storage, import/export, shipping, customs clearance, transport bookings, advance hotel bookings, visas, repatriations, and permits. (Photo: D.L. Mazur)
Jangbu Sherpa looks proud in the new health clinic he helped found to help the 4000 people in his home district, who before this time had no access to health care, and had to walk three days and take a bus for one day, in case of emergency, so they could get to the nearest meager health services. Before the clinic was established, many villagers died on the way to get health care. Our June service trek will visit this remote health clinic, where we have never seen another tourist (John Vavruska).
Jangbu has climbed more than 12 peaks with us, and he is an accomplished climber, a real asset to our expeditions, and a very friendly and kind person.
Our awesome Tibetan Sherpa team at Cho Oyu ABC at 5600 metres with Tunc (pronounced "toonch"). He is a strong friendly climber from Ankara. Here is what SummitClimb leader Phil Crampton has to say about the photo: "The names are from left to right: Wangdu (from Lhatze, Tibet), Tsering Dorje (Nyalam), Tashi Tsering (Shigatse), Tunc Findik (Turkey) and Aden (Shegar). Tunc has climbed Pumori, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Everest and guides on Elbrus. All the Tibetan climbers came from the Tibetan Mountain School in Lhasa and have climbed Everest at least once with Tashi making the summit three times. SummitClimb have been supporting the school since day one."
We have been working with the Tibetan Mountain School to educate and train extremely strong and helpful Tibetan climbers, staff, and cooks. They have climbed Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Mustagata, Nojin Tangla and many other summits together with us. They are not only adept and fearless climbers, but they are also learning to cook and their English is getting pretty good. They were born and raised in Shegar, Tibet, a town which lies above 4000 metres. These are students from the Tibetan High-Altitude Mountain School, in Lhasa, which we have been working with continuously since 1998. To learn more about the school, please visit: www.xixabangma.com
Durge Tamang, on the summit of Cho Oyu, the 6th highest mountain in the world. (Photographer: D.L. Mazur, Copyright: www.mountainzone.com)
|Durge is a 37 year old, multi-talented and well traveled mountain climber. He is a father and husband. He has reached the summits of Everest and Cho Oyu. He carried Imax movie equipment, strapped to his back, to the south col on Everest. He has been a member of Swiss expeditions. Durge helped to rescue a team of climbers from a winter ascent of Kangchenjunga. Durge is a real gentleman and an extremely professional sherpa. He speaks English, Tibetan, Nepalese, and Tamang. He has a deep understanding of the concerns of the western tourist, and is a very strong and talented climber.|
Maya Sherpa, first Nepalese woman on Ama Dablam, Pumori, and Cho Oyu.
Maya in Cho Oyu basecamp after making a succesful ascent (Roland DeBare). We were fortunate to be able to assist in the first ascent by a Nepalese woman, and putting the youngest woman on the summit. Maya Sherpa and Camille Kinny on the summit, with Everest on the right. A beautiful day, if a little windy. When we got back to Kathmandu the reporters were at the hotel and the story was printed in the paper (Chris Kinny).
Maya is a strong climber and very friendly person. She is developing into one of Nepal's finest woman climbing sherpas.
Kipa Sherpa, Five star cook.
Kipa Sherpa, our expert cook, has taken classes at 5-star hotels in Kathmandu. He cooks three delicious hot meals each day in basecamp and advanced basecamp (Roland Debare).
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