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PUMORI

A "Classic" Ice and Snow Mountain Located Next to Everest.

Climbing Pumori could qualify you for Cho Oyu, Lhotse, or Everest. Please see our Cho Oyu, Lhotse, or Everest link for more information. Thank you.

We provide generous discounts for groups of two or more.

When you see the high level of service we provide, as well as low budget options, you may agree that the cost is affordable, inexpensive, even cheap.

Now accepting applications for our 2007 and 2008 climbs.

 

Photos taken on our Pumori expedition in 2003. Upper photo: Pumori seen from the air, with our route, looking from the summit down, on the right hand skyline ridge, then dropping down the rock ridge to the right of center (Erich Bonfert). Left hand photo: Pumori as first seen from the memorials on the top of Dugla Hill, just below Lobuche (Steve Miscione). Pumori is impressive in the way it dominates the western side of the Khumbu Valley. The route follows the right hand skyline. Right hand photo: Pumori seen from basecamp during a prayer ceremony when our Buddhist sherpas hang the prayer flags bringing good luck to our expeditions. Our route climbs to the summit via the right hand shoulder, which is accessed from the obvious rock ridge extending from the far right side of the photo (Erich Bonfert).

Climb one of Nepals' most classic 7000 metre peaks, in the shadow of Mount Everest.

Leaders: Daniel Mazur, Pumori 4 time summiter, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks", along with Jay Reilly, 2 time Pumori and 2 time Ama Dablam summiter.

Interested? Please contact us: info@SummitClimb.com

* Our “full-service” expedition includes: 

1. Leader: Jay Reilly, two time Pumori and two time Ama Dablam summiter, with Daniel Mazur, Pumori 4 time summiter, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks".
2. Climbing Sherpas for the group;
3. Transport to basecamp to/from Kathmandu (including round trip domestic flights), for you and equipment, including camping and meals on trek;
4. Yak transport of all equipment from Lukla to and from basecamp;
5. Three hot meals per day on trek, in basecamp and advanced basecamp. Comfortable tables and chairs and dining tent in basecamp;
6. Skillful basecamp and advanced basecamp cooks;
7. All mountain, basecamp and advanced basecamp food;
8. All permit fees and liaison officers;
9. Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, satellite telephone, etcetera;
10. Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
11. In addition to our top-quality high-altitude tents, we now provide an individual tent (1 tent per person) in basecamp.

* Our "basic climb" includes: 

1. Coordinator: Daniel Mazur, 4 time Pumori summiter, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks";
2. All permit fees and liaison officers;
3. Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
4. Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents), coordinated with our own "full-service" climbing team.
5. Other necessary services and supplies (ie: extra yaks, trek services, basecamp meals, high altitude services and equipment), may be purchased and hired at minimal expense. We offer basic climb "packages" as noted below, or, we can furnish individual items such as tents, stoves, gas, food, etcetera.

Leadership: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the leadership provided by  Jay Reilly, 2 time summiter of Pumori,  as well as Daniel Mazur, 4 time Pumori summitter, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks". They are relaxed, friendly and well organized persons, and highly-skilled professionals with 25 years experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. Jay is now the team leader for our leader in training programme. For more about Jay and Dan, please "click" on the Leadership link above. By the way, we have conducted more than eleven 7000 metre peak expeditions, and consider ourselves specialists in identifying and organizing expeditions to the world's 7000ers.

 Our team of three members and three Sherpas on the summit. Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse behind. Note the climbing ropes spread out on the snow. Even at the summit, we climb roped together for safety (Marion Joncheres). Dan on the summit of Pumori, 7216 metres. Tibet''s west Rongbuk Glacier lies behind (Dimitrius Koutsogiorgas).

Trekking: For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Pumori trek site: Pumori Trek.

Sherpas and Equipment Transport: Our expedition includes transport of all of your equipment from Kathmandu to basecamp, and returned to Kathmandu. While climbing on the mountain, we DO NOT ask our full-service members to carry heavy group equipment (although it is an option if you really want to), such as tents, rope, fuel, food, etcetera. We employ climbing sherpas, and high-altitude porters, to carry group equipment and supplies. For a minimal expense, we can also provide personal sherpas, and climbing-guides, to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa or personal climbing-guide. We encourage you to consider the option of a "1/4 sherpa" this is a person who can carry your personal equipment up and down the mountain, so you don't have to.

3 of our top Sherpas on the summit, Lakpa, Jangbu, and Gyalu. We could not do this climb without them (Marion Joncheres).

Training: Upon arrival in basecamp, ALL full-service and basic-climb members are required to participate in one to two days of training in the areas of climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, rappels (abseils), belaying, medical equipment and procedures, communications equipment, camping techniques and high-altitude cooking. For the expert and beginner alike, it is important to review these techniques in order to enhance skills, ensure safety-awareness, and work together as a team.

Safety: BOTH full-service and basic expeditions are allowed access to our extensive medical supplies, first-aid kits, medical oxygen, and a gamow bag in case of emergency. Thank you for being a well-prepared and safe team member!

Communications: During our expedition, we regularly update several websites, such as EverestNews.com with the progress of our expedition and our team members. In this way, your loved ones and friends, colleagues, and sponsors can stay tuned to how you are progressing on your way up to and back down from the summit. Our expedition is equipped with one "walkie-talkie" radio for each member, and a satellite telephone for international voice telephone calls and emails. Members wishing to use the telephone will contribute $4 per minute of use.

Group Equipment: We provide a plethora of well-used, top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what we bring for your use and safety.

Our excellent cook, brewing up another fine meal in the cook tent at 5300 metre basecamp. (DL Mazur).

Basecamp Medical orientation session with our team. Here they are reviewing how to use a "Gamow Bag" (Steve Miscione).ff

Cooks and Food: On trek, our top notch cooks provide three very tasty meals each day. In basecamp, advanced basecamp, and Camp 1, our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, and fresh as well as tinned fruits, meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst). They supply you with unlimited hot-drinks, the key to successful acclimatization. We have large weather-proof kitchens and dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables. On the mountain, we provide you with abundant and nutritious locally available quick-cooking food, so that you may prepare at least three meals and lots of hot drinks each day, in our specially designed high-altitude stoves using our butane-propane expedition mix fuel.

Personal Equipment: Plastic double climbing boots are required, as are good quality leather walking boots (most people walk to advanced basecamp in leather boots, and then switch to plastic boots for the ice and snow on the upper mountain). You will need to bring your own personal equipment, including rucksack, iceaxe, crampons, harness, helmet, down/duvet jacket, wind/waterproof clothing, sleeping bag/mat, etcetera. You will need to bring your own daily snacks ( a wide selection of snacks are readily available in Kathmandu). In addition, we ask you to bring 2 of your favorite high-altitude freeze-dried dinners for yourself. Please see the above EQUIPMENT link, to study what is needed.

Mike on the fixed ropes below camp 1 at 5800 metres (DL Mazur).

Team Member Experience: Our leaders, Jay Reilly and Daniel Mazur, and our team-climbing-sherpas, are there to ensure (for our full-service members) you make it up to the summit and down safely. However, this is not a guided expedition (although you could hire your own personal guide, sherpas, etcetera), and team members are expected to be able to care for themselves in a winter-camping and climbing environment. Obviously, when climbing Nepal's "classic" 7000 metre peak, there are hazards present, and members must have knowledge of roped snow and ice climbing techniques (to protect from falling down the mountain or into crevasses). It is also required that all members will have an awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite, and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention, and treatment. Once traveling above advanced base camp, all members must be prepared to be tied into the fixed lines or roped to another team member at all times. Neither solo climbing, nor descending, are allowed above advanced base camp. Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, members need to join with a spirit of friendship, teamwork and cooperation, and be ready to work with the group and be a good "team-player".

Fitness and Health: To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales. Note: You can purchase all necessary medicines inexpensively with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu. Make sure you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before joining this climb of Asia's most famous semi-technical rock-ice-snow climb.

Safety statement: Climbing and trekking are dangerous. You could become injured, ill, disabled, or even die. A peak may be referred to as "classic", etcetera, but intensive training, preparation, skills development,  and experience are necessary before tackling one of these giants. If you are unsure about what is involved, and wish to hone and develop mountain skills, we encourage you to attend our GLACIER SCHOOL.

Introduction This climb, of what is claimed to be the "classic" 7,000 meter peak in Nepal, includes all imaginable team-services, leadership, sherpas, cooks and cuisine, shared-support, and group equipment.  Pumori is a spectacular mountain, not least of all because it offers constant views of Mt Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. It was from here that Eric Shipton helped to choose the first ascent route on Mt Everest, which Tenzing and Hillary climbed in 1953. According to David Padwa, the peak was named by Mallory during the first Everest Reconnaissance. He wanted to name a peak after his young daughter. In the Sherpa and Tibetan languages, "Pumo" means girl , and "Ri" means mountain. We made four ascents of this mountain in 1996, 2003, 2004, and 2005, placing 4, 7, 8, and 5 members on the summit, with many sherpas. The trek to basecamp travels the beautiful and famous Khumbu valley. For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Pumori trek site: Pumori Trek. Before and after the climb, we visit and tour Nepal’s cultural center: Kathmandu. Pumori is unusual in that it is a high summit, a spectacularly beautiful mountain located directly across from Mt Everest, with a very easily approached and moderate route (not as technical as Ama Dablam, and easier than any other 7000 metre peak in Nepal), which should allow for a fairly reliable chance at reaching the top for everyone in the team.

We have chosen what has traditionally been the best season to climb the mountain, the spring, or "pre-monsoon",  when snow fall and bad weather is at a minimum, and the climbing route is in very good and stable condition. 


     

Dana outside the tent at Pumori basecamp, 5300 metres.  The view from base, looking toward Nuptse at sunset. (DL Mazur) Martha trekking to ABC (DL Mazur)

Detailed Description Our trip begins in the ancient and colorful city of Kathmandu, and our staff will personally meet your flight at Tribhuvan airport.   We stay in a comfortable, simple, clean hotel, and sample some of the tasty Nepalese, Tibetan and Western-Style cuisine, at a very moderate expense.  During our day in Kathmandu, we shall finalize our arrangements, and take some time out for trinket hunting, with potential visits to explore the 17th century splendors of the Monkey Temple, the Durbar Square and old Kings Palace, as well as the ancient city of Patan.

Early the following morning we fly to Lukla at 2860 metres., where we meet our yak drivers,  and porters.  If there is time, we will trek to Monjo (2652m), and spend the night. For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Pumori trek site: Pumori Trek.

     

Trekking in the Khumbu valley. Yaks carry our gear (Bob Rowe). Crossing a bridge under rhododendron forests. (DL Mazur) Our team in Pumori Basecamp (DL Mazur).

We will continue our trek up to Namche Bazaar (3446m), the capital of the Sherpa Kingdom. Here we rest for a day to acclimate, then proceed up to Deboche (3757m) for a night, then to Lobuche (4930m), where we can have another acclimatization day. Finally, we make the last trek to basecamp at 5300 metres. After resting, organising, and training in basecamp for a day or so, we will begin our climb. We start with a day hike to advanced basecamp (ABC), located on a protected rocky spur at 5700 metres. We return to basecamp for a tasty dinner,  prepared by our skilled cooks.  

      

Dan, Phil, Jay, and Shera Sherpa climbing fixed line on the last headwall into camp 1 at 6000 metres. Camp 1 at 6100 metres with Jangbu and Lakpa Sherpa and Dan, Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse behind (Marion Joncheres).

After a night's rest, we walk to ABC with our rucksacks, and our sherpas help to set up the camp. We now station a cook in ABC, who prepares tasty meals and lots of hot drinks, keeping all of the members and sherpas well-fed and hydrated, contributing significantly to our summit success. We sleep in ABC, then the following day, we climb to Camp 1 at 6100 metres.  The route to camp 1 is mixed snow, rock and ice, and the average slope angle is 35 degrees. The climbing here is not very technically difficult. We fix rope on the slopes to camp 1, and there will be plenty of opportunity for everyone to train and gain experience in fixed rope technique. We will return to basecamp for a rest, and some more of our cook's fine food. The following day, we depart early and climb from basecamp to camp 1.  Camp 1 is safely located on top of an ice ledge. We rest a day in camp 1, then explore the slopes to camp 2, fixing rope where necessary.

     

This year, due to an unusually dry winter, we had to fix a 5 metre ladder over a crevasse at 6300 metres. We anchored it well and fixed extra lines. Perfect training for Everest! This photo shows Marion inching her way across using extreme caution and two safety lines. (Phil Aikman). After crossing the ladder, our group needed a well deserved rest in the warm sunshine (Marion Joncheres). Chantal Mauduit approaching camp 2 at 6500 metres (DL Mazur). Camp 2 at 6600 metres (Marion Joncheres).

The most challenging  point of the route is located at 6400 meters, and it is a 75 degree snow-ice slope, which is 6 metres, 20 feet high. We will definitely fix rope at this place. In fact, during our 2004 expedition, we fixed rope from advanced base camp to the summit.After a few more metres, the slope flattens out, and we climb the final gentle 100 metres into camp 2 at 6700 metres. Camp 2 is located in a protected flat spot beneath a rock buttress. We will spend a night in camp 2, and some members may feel well enough to try for the summit.

     

Marion climbing the fixed lines on the 3 metre step at 7000 metres, which Jangbu Sherpa has named "The Monkey Way" (DL Mazur). Dimitri, nearly at the summit (DL Mazur).

Others will wish to rest,  then try again for the summit. In this way, we will have multiple summit attempts, ensuring that everyone has an EQUAL CHANCE AT THE SUMMIT. The route from camp 2 to the summit is a relatively easy snow hike, with some steep places (we stay roped together at all times) and the views from Pumori summit are stunning, with glimpses of Tibet in three directions, not to mention the full glory of the Everest Massif. There is probably no better vantage point to study the Nepalese route on Everest, first climbed by Hillary and Tenzing in 1953. After summiting, we carefully remove all of our trash and equipment from the mountain, then trek down to Lukla, where we board a plane for the flight back. In Kathmandu, we have a day to relax, celebrate, exchange addresses with new friends, tour the valley, write postcards, and do a bit more shopping before heading home. Welcome to our expedition!   

DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY FOR PUMORI CLIMB

1. Arrive Kathmandu (1,300 meters).  Hotel.
2. In Kathmandu; visit temples; city tour; shopping.  Hotel.
3. Fly to Lukla (2860m).  Walk to Phakding (2652m). Teahouse or camping.
4. Walk to Namche Bazaar (3446m).  Teahouse or camping.
5. Rest and acclimatization in Namche.  Teahouse or camping.
6. Walk to Pangboche (3757m).  Teahouse or camping.
7. Walk to Pheriche (4250m).  Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association health clinic. Teahouse or camping.
8. Walk to Dugla (4650m).  Teahouse or camping.
9. Walk to Lobuche (4930m).  Teahouse or camping.
10. Rest in Lobuche.
11. Walk to basecamp (5300m).
12. Rest, organization, and training day in basecamp.
13. Walk to ABC (5700m). Return to basecamp.
14. Walk to ABC, and sleep there.
15. Explore route to camp 1 (6100m), return to basecamp.
16. Rest in basecamp.
17. Walk to camp 1, sleep there. 
18. Rest and acclimatization in camp 1.
19. Explore route to camp 2 (6600m). Return to basecamp.
20. Rest in basecamp.
21. Rest in basecamp.
22. Walk to camp 1. Sleep there.
23. Climb to camp 2, sleep there.
24. Attempt summit (7216m).
25. Attempt summit.
26. Attempt summit.
27. Attempt summit.
28. Attempt summit. Return to basecamp.
29. Pack up basecamp.
30. Trek down to Pangboche. Teahouse or camping.
31. Trek to Namche, Teahouse or camping.
32. Trek to Lukla. Teahouse or camping.
33. Flight to Kathmandu.  Hotel.
34. Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping.  Hotel.
35. Fly Home. Thanks for joining our expedition!

Interested? Please contact us: info@SummitClimb.com

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